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Clafoutis aux cerises
Cherry pie, cherry cobbler, cherry tart, cherry mousse, cherry soup, yes, but cherry clafoutis? Why such an odd word for one of France’s favorite homespun desserts, cherries baked in a batter of eggs, milk and sugar? Clafoutis (pronounced clah-foo-TEE) comes … Continue reading
Posted in Desserts
Tagged cerises, cherry, clafoutis, cooking holiday in spain, recette, recipe, scaramouche ice cream
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Pigeon rôti
It all started with a sail down the Nile in a felucca. That’s where an Egyptian named Refat took a fancy to me. In short order he invited me and my friends to his place across the river from Luxor. … Continue reading
Haricots verts à la française
I lived in Paris for many years before I figured out how to cook green beans the French way. They would arrive glistening on bistro plates in deep green, succulent piles. Whatever I tried — steaming the beans, boiling them, … Continue reading
Posted in 8. Vegetables
Tagged food fight, french beans, green beans, haricots verts, recipe
5 Comments
Saumon grillé, crème d’aneth
A popular dish in Paris bistros these days is saumon à l’aneth — salmon with a sauce of cream and fresh dill. The salmon is generally served steamed or poached. In this version, the salmon is instead pan-seared for a … Continue reading
Posted in 5. Fish and Shellfish
Tagged aneth, cream, dill, maison plisson, recipe, salmon, saumon
2 Comments
Fromage fort
Fromage fort translates literally as ‘strong cheese’, but — in a country known for its many strong cheeses — that does not begin to convey the pungency of this spread of aged cheeses, garlic and eau-de-vie. It could more rightly … Continue reading
Posted in 4a. Savory Tarts and Tartines
Tagged cheese spread, fromage fort, la tartine, recipe, strong cheese
3 Comments
Soupe aux asperges
How to turn a simple soup into a festive occasion? Add a spoonful of fish roe and a smattering of fresh herbs. I first encountered roe on soup at my favorite neighborhood bistro, Le Repaire de Cartouche. They served cauliflower … Continue reading
Posted in 2. Soups
Tagged asparagus soup, french school reform, oeufs de truite, recipe, soupe aux asperges, trout roe
4 Comments
Meringues aux fruits des bois
What do the French mean, exactly, by fruits des bois? ‘Fruits of the forest’, yes, but then? Originally the term meant wild berries, but today it encompasses strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blackberries and perhaps the occasional red or black currant — … Continue reading
Posted in Desserts
Tagged blueberries, dessert, fruits des bois, meringue, raspberries, recipe, strawberries
2 Comments
Spaghettis à l’ail et huile d’olive
Did Marco Polo really introduce spaghetti to Italy when he returned from China in 1295? Apparently not. This ancient food — noodles, in one form or another — existed in China for millennia before the intrepid Italian adventurer arrived there, … Continue reading
Posted in 9. Pasta, Rice, Grains
Tagged garlic, marco polo, olive oil, parsley, recipe, spaghetti, thomas jefferson, vegan
1 Comment
Salade niçoise
Salade niçoise is a dish so evocative that you can probably remember where you were when you first tasted one. In my case, it was in … Nice, where I spent three weeks digging for pre-Neanderthal man as a student … Continue reading
Posted in 3. Salads
Tagged anchovies, basil, black olives, eggs, green pepper, olive oil, onions, raw artichoke hearts, recipe, salade nicoise, tomatoes
5 Comments
