Coq au Riesling

Alsatian chicken in Riesling

This dish from Alsace of chicken and mushrooms in a creamy wine sauce makes for French country cooking at its finest. The chicken is browned with chopped shallots and thyme and simmered in Riesling wine for half an hour. The sauce is then thickened with cream, egg yolk and flour. Sliced mushrooms cooked separately are added at the end.

As its name implies, this dish was originally made with rooster (coq), but these days chicken is more commonly used. For best results, use free-range or organic chicken — either a whole chicken cut into eight pieces, or four thighs and drumsticks, separated. White mushooms are traditional. For a fancier version, you could use morel mushrooms (morilles) in spring or porcini mushrooms (cèpes) in the autumn.

As for the wine, Riesling is a slightly fruity dry white that is produced in Alsace and other places around the world, including Germany, the United States and Australia. If Riesling is not available, substitutes include Sauvignon blanc, Chenin blanc and Gewürtztraminer.

Coq au Riesling is generally served in Alsace over spaetzle or another egg pasta from the region. Other choices include pasta such as fusilli, farfalle or riso, rice or mashed potatoes.

The quantities below will serve four people.

1 chicken or 4 chicken legs (thighs and drumsticks)
2 tbsp. (30 g) butter
1 tbsp. vegetable oil (e.g. sunflower oil)
3 shallots
1 cup (25 cl) Riesling or a similar white wine
2 branches fresh thyme or 1/2 tsp. dried thyme
1/2 tsp. salt, or more to taste
freshly ground black pepper

1/2 pound (220 g) mushrooms
1 egg
2/3 cup (15 cl) crême fraïche, heavy cream or a combination
1 tbsp. flour

If using a whole chicken, have your butcher cut it into eight pieces or cut it apart yourself. If using whole legs, separate the thighs and drumsticks. Or, if possible, buy chicken that has already been cut into parts.

Set aside 1 teaspoon of butter (which you will use later for cooking the mushrooms).

In a large skillet or large heavy-bottomed pot, heat the rest of the butter and the oil to sizzling. Add the chicken pieces, skin side down. Cook over medium-high heat for 5 minutes or until golden brown, flip and cook for another 5 minutes.

While the chicken is browning, peel and mince the shallots. When the chicken is golden brown, push it to one side and add the shallots. Cook for 2 minutes, until wilted.

While the shallots are cooking, measure out the Riesling. (Have a sip — cook’s privilege).

Stir the chicken and shallots together. Add the Riesling. Add the thyme and salt. Grind on some black pepper. Stir. Cook at a simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes.

While the chicken is cooking, prepare the mushrooms. Wash them, cut off the bottoms and slice thinly. Heat the remaining 1 teaspoon of butter in a separate skillet. Add the mushrooms, sprinkle lightly with salt and cook over medium heat until the mushrooms give out their juices, about 5 minutes. Do not let them brown. Remove from heat.

Now prepare the sauce ingredients. Separate the egg, placing the yolk in a small bowl and discarding or reserving the white. Stir in the cream, then the flour. Mix well.

When the chicken has cooked for half an hour, remove the chicken pieces to a bowl. Turn the heat under the skillet down to low. Whisk in the cream mixture. Allow the sauce to heat until it thickens, whisking occasionally. Do not let it boil.

Return the chicken to the sauce, add the mushrooms and their juices, and reheat gently. Taste and adjust the seasonings as necessary.

Serve piping hot over pasta, rice or potatoes. Serves 4.