Category Archives: 9. Pasta, Rice, Grains

Boulgour aux oignons rouges

A guest was coming to dinner, a friend from the literary world. I didn’t want to have to spend a lot of time in the kitchen while he was here, yet wanted to produce a satisfying, palate-pleasing meal. What to … Continue reading

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Pâtes aux moules et pecorino

It is surprising, in our globalized world, that we can still travel only a short distance and find ourselves in a whole new foodosphere. I recently had the pleasure of visiting Naples. The first night, at a joint straight out … Continue reading

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Risotto au potiron et au thym

A couple weeks ago, on a bright October day, I made this dish for a friend who was coming to dinner. I’d had pumpkin risotto at lunch that week at Merci, a café with creative cuisine across the street from … Continue reading

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Penne à l’arrabiata

We’ve been having a September heat wave. Maybe this explains why so many Paris bistros are featuring Italian dishes at the moment. Most popular seems to be the assiette italienne, typically melon, parma ham, tomatoes, mozzarella and basil. But pasta … Continue reading

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Gnocchi au four sauce tomate

What could be more satisfying on a cool autumn evening than gnocchi enveloped in a rustic homemade tomato sauce, topped with mozzarella and baked in the oven? For an everyday chef, the beauty of this dish lies also in the … Continue reading

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Paëlla poulet, chorizo, moules et gambas

Paella, the immensely popular rice dish from Spain, crossed the border long ago to become one of the favorite dishes of France. It is particularly prevalent in areas north of the Pyrenées, where I had the good fortune to spend … Continue reading

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Penne au safran, roquette et noix

Is it alchemy? Is it art? Each of the four main ingredients in this knock-out dish — saffron, arugula, walnuts and parmesan — has so much personality that one could easily imagine it knocking out the other three. And yet, … Continue reading

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Spaghettis à l’ail et huile d’olive

Did Marco Polo really introduce spaghetti to Italy when he returned from China in 1295? Apparently not. This ancient food — noodles, in one form or another — existed in China for millennia before the intrepid Italian adventurer arrived there, … Continue reading

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Risotto aux morilles

The morel — morille in French — is a springtime mushroom, but that doesn’t mean we need to wait until spring to enjoy it. Dried morels work wonderfully with any number of dishes, for example this risotto, in which they … Continue reading

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Tagliatelles aux girolles

With the autumn mushroom season bursting forth in all its glorious bounty, there’s only one thing to do: go hunting. In my case, given the dearth of forests in Paris, this means heading down to the local street market. What … Continue reading

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