Author Archives: Meg

Epaule d’agneau rôti à l’ail

Roast shoulder of lamb makes a fine centerpiece at Easter, Passover or any time of the year. In this recipe, the meat is surrounded by whole cloves of garlic, which soften while roasting into a sweet, succulent paste. The garlic … Continue reading

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Avocat au saumon fumé

Here’s a fresh take on avocat vinaigrette, a popular starter on bistro menus when I arrived in Paris 40 years ago. In the original, avocado halves were filled with a thick, mustardy sauce. This version is both lighter and prettier, … Continue reading

Posted in 1. Starters | Tagged , , , , , | 7 Comments

Poireaux au gratin

Leek gratin is traditionally made with Reblochon, a pungent cheese from the French Alps, but it has been snowing in Paris. The snow brought the city to a standstill, and by the time it stopped the stores were empty. No … Continue reading

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Risotto de langouste

The lobster known as le homard — the one with alarming claws — is hugely expensive in Paris, and so is its kinder, gentler cousin, la langouste (no pinchers). But this winter frozen langouste tails began appearing at a reasonable … Continue reading

Posted in 9. Pasta, Rice, Grains | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

Velouté de butternut

Butternut soup is suddenly the rage in Paris. Walk down any street and you will see it listed on menu-of-the-day chalkboards outside bistros. This is all the more surprising given that butternut squash was virtually unknown in France until a … Continue reading

Posted in 2. Soups | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

Parmentier de canard

Here’s a cold-weather dish that is both sophisticated and supremely French. Duck parmentier — shredded duck confit topped by puréed potatoes — has turned up on Paris bistro menus recently and I was lucky enough to be served this version … Continue reading

Posted in 6. Poultry | Tagged , , , , , | 8 Comments


I had a surprise recently when a friend from Alsace presented me with a recipe for butterbredel, small butter cookies in festive shapes that are traditionally served over the holidays. They’re not just pretty but incredibly easy to make. And … Continue reading

Posted in Desserts | Tagged , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Plateau de fruits de mer

Sharing a shellfish platter in fond company is one of the great pleasures of life in France, particularly if you happen to be enjoying it by the sea. Add a bottle of crisp white and the sound of waves breaking … Continue reading

Posted in 5. Fish and Shellfish | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Boulgour aux oignons rouges

A guest was coming to dinner, a friend from the literary world. I didn’t want to have to spend a lot of time in the kitchen while he was here, yet wanted to produce a satisfying, palate-pleasing meal. What to … Continue reading

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Quiche lorraine

You can find quiche lorraine in virtually any bakery or deli in France, but it is even better when made at home. The rich filling of eggs, milk cream, bacon and cheese fluffs up in the oven to marry delightfully … Continue reading

Posted in 4a. Savory Tarts and Tartines | Tagged , , | 4 Comments