This dish of fish in a tomato-coconut-lime sauce hails from Brazil, where it is known as moqueca. I discovered it at the home of a friend in the English countryside, and found it so wonderful that I had to share it with you. Jane, the friend in question, learned to make it while her husband was serving as a senior British diplomat in Brasília. They entertained a lot and, as she put it, this is a great party dish because it can be largely prepared in advance.
Poisson brésilien au lait de coco / Brazilian fish stew ‘moqueca’
Regular readers of this site may remember that the recipe in my last post was also from an English friend, another superlative cook. What’s the connection? We all lived in Moscow when it was still the capital of the USSR — and thus we learned to be creative cooks. There were a few state-run restaurants but there was nothing resembling normal nightlife. If we wanted to have a nice dinner, we had to prepare it ourselves.
This involved creative shopping as well. The building to which all three of us were assigned was within easy walking distance of a decent farmers market, but the quality and quantity of the food on offer there was unpredictable. Even less predictable were the state-run shops, hence the habit of every Muscovite of never going out without an avoska (string bag) in case something interesting should turn up. Which happened rarely.
One food item that was generally available somewhere was ice cream, and it was excellent. People lined up for it in the streets in winter, never mind the -30 temperatures. But there was only one flavor — vanilla. Well, dear friends, creative cooking means figuring out how to go beyond vanilla. Soon I was delighting my dinner guests with exotic flavors like chocolate or strawberry. (Hint: let the ice cream soften, add cocoa powder or mashed strawberries, stir and refreeze). Another thing I learned to make in Moscow was French-fried onion rings — as no such thing was available there (coming soon).
Getting back to moqueca (pronounced moo-KAY-ka), fillets of any firm, white-fleshed fish are marinated for a while in lime juice, garlic and ginger, then cooked in a sauce of sweet red pepper, onion, garlic, tomato and cayenne, with coconut milk, more lime juice and chopped cilantro added at the end. The dish is traditionally served over rice.
And, you may well ask, why is a Brazilian dish that came to me via Moscow appearing on a French food blog? Well, for one thing, I made it in Paris. For another, we’ve got the Olympics happening here in a matter of days, and what better way to celebrate the Olympic spirit of friendly competition among nations than a multi-culti dish?
Happy cooking.