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Croustillants au chèvre-romarin-miel
This unusual French take on Mediterranean cheese pastries combines rosemary and honey with goat cheese to produce an intoxicating Provençal flavor. Similar pastries, also called cheese fingers or cheese cigarettes, are ubiquitous around the eastern Mediterranean rim. You may find … Continue reading
Posted in 1. Starters
1 Comment
Taboulé
There are probably as many ways to make tabbouleh salad as there are cooks in the world. The dish hails from the eastern Mediterranean, but has spread to many countries, among them France. When I first arrived here (full disclosure: … Continue reading
Penne au safran, roquette et noix
Is it alchemy? Is it art? Each of the four main ingredients in this knock-out dish — saffron, arugula, walnuts and parmesan — has so much personality that one could easily imagine it knocking out the other three. And yet, … Continue reading
Clafoutis aux cerises
Cherry pie, cherry cobbler, cherry tart, cherry mousse, cherry soup, yes, but cherry clafoutis? Why such an odd word for one of France’s favorite homespun desserts, cherries baked in a batter of eggs, milk and sugar? Clafoutis (pronounced clah-foo-TEE) comes … Continue reading
Posted in Desserts
Tagged cerises, cherry, clafoutis, cooking holiday in spain, recette, recipe, scaramouche ice cream
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Pigeon rôti
It all started with a sail down the Nile in a felucca. That’s where an Egyptian named Refat took a fancy to me. In short order he invited me and my friends to his place across the river from Luxor. … Continue reading
Haricots verts à la française
I lived in Paris for many years before I figured out how to cook green beans the French way. They would arrive glistening on bistro plates in deep green, succulent piles. Whatever I tried — steaming the beans, boiling them, … Continue reading
Posted in 8. Vegetables
Tagged food fight, french beans, green beans, haricots verts, recipe
5 Comments
Saumon grillé, crème d’aneth
A popular dish in Paris bistros these days is saumon à l’aneth — salmon with a sauce of cream and fresh dill. The salmon is generally served steamed or poached. In this version, the salmon is instead pan-seared for a … Continue reading
Posted in 5. Fish and Shellfish
Tagged aneth, cream, dill, maison plisson, recipe, salmon, saumon
2 Comments
Fromage fort
Fromage fort translates literally as ‘strong cheese’, but — in a country known for its many strong cheeses — that does not begin to convey the pungency of this spread of aged cheeses, garlic and eau-de-vie. It could more rightly … Continue reading
Posted in 4a. Savory Tarts and Tartines
Tagged cheese spread, fromage fort, la tartine, recipe, strong cheese
3 Comments
Soupe aux asperges
How to turn a simple soup into a festive occasion? Add a spoonful of fish roe and a smattering of fresh herbs. I first encountered roe on soup at my favorite neighborhood bistro, Le Repaire de Cartouche. They served cauliflower … Continue reading
Posted in 2. Soups
Tagged asparagus soup, french school reform, oeufs de truite, recipe, soupe aux asperges, trout roe
4 Comments
Meringues aux fruits des bois
What do the French mean, exactly, by fruits des bois? ‘Fruits of the forest’, yes, but then? Originally the term meant wild berries, but today it encompasses strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blackberries and perhaps the occasional red or black currant — … Continue reading
Posted in Desserts
Tagged blueberries, dessert, fruits des bois, meringue, raspberries, recipe, strawberries
2 Comments


