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Tarte fine aux poireaux et lardons
This fine-crust savory tart with leeks and bacon is what you might call French ‘pizza.’ It is a relative of the more commonly seen flammekueche from Alsace, in which bacon and finely sliced onions are placed on thin dough covered … Continue reading
Posted in 4a. Savory Tarts and Tartines
Tagged bacon, cream, flammekueche, French, leeks, pizza, recipe, savory tarts
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Jardinière de légumes printaniers
If I were a vegetable, I’d like to start my life in spring. The tenderest peas, the sweetest onions, the most darling little carrots and turnips emerge at this time of year. The markets in France are overflowing with beautiful … Continue reading
Posted in 8. Vegetables
Tagged bacon, carrots, French, peas, recipe, spring onions, turnips
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Entrecôte bordelaise
If you are from the Bordeaux region you probably know the difference, but if you’re from anywhere else, you may not: entrecôte bordelaise, one of France’s great steak dishes, is served without a wine sauce. The steak is grilled over … Continue reading
Posted in 7. Meat Dishes
Tagged a la bordelaise, ecole ferrandi, recipe, shallots, steak, wine sauce
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Asperges au parmesan
There are so many beautiful things to be done with asparagus in the springtime that sometimes it’s hard to choose. In a quiche? In an omelet? Wrapped in a crêpe with melted cheese? Served in solitary splendor as a first … Continue reading
Risotto au safran
Risotto is one of the world’s great comfort foods, and this particular kind — with saffron — is one of my favorites. It makes a fine starter and works well as a side dish. I served it the other evening … Continue reading
Posted in 9. Pasta, Rice, Grains
Tagged Au Passage, Bones, James Henry, recipe, risotto, saffron, shaun kelly
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Coquelet à la géorgienne
Take a moment to consider the humble walnut. It is said to have health enhancing qualities, and even life extending properties, possibly because it contains antioxidants. Now let’s consider the Georgians and their beautiful, mountainous land on the shores of … Continue reading
Posted in 6. Poultry
Tagged anya von bremzen, chicken, coquelet, Georgian cuisine, recipe, walnut sauce, walnuts
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Mousse aux fraises
Who would have thought that something like strawberry mousse could spark a sex war? But that’s what happened the other day when, experimenting with this recipe, I took two versions of it to a friend’s place for a lunchtime dessert. … Continue reading
Artichauts à la barigoule
Artichokes simmered lovingly with garlic and parsley — this dish is served throughout southeast France and Italy, and probably has been since Roman times. There are many variations, often with pancetta, breadcrumbs, tomatoes, onions, carrots or white wine. I prefer … Continue reading
Saumon à l’oseille
At some point in the wee hours of this morning, Paris time, views of this culinary blog soared past 100,000. That’s not huge by web standards. Last year I met a fellow at a cookbook conference who told me his … Continue reading
Soupe aux betteraves à l’ukrainienne
This is one of my favorite soups, a recipe I picked up after returning to Paris from a long posting in the USSR. But is it French? In a word, nyet. On the other hand, it’s ‘French style’ for a … Continue reading
