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Coquelet à la géorgienne
Take a moment to consider the humble walnut. It is said to have health enhancing qualities, and even life extending properties, possibly because it contains antioxidants. Now let’s consider the Georgians and their beautiful, mountainous land on the shores of … Continue reading
Posted in 6. Poultry
Tagged anya von bremzen, chicken, coquelet, Georgian cuisine, recipe, walnut sauce, walnuts
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Mousse aux fraises
Who would have thought that something like strawberry mousse could spark a sex war? But that’s what happened the other day when, experimenting with this recipe, I took two versions of it to a friend’s place for a lunchtime dessert. … Continue reading
Artichauts à la barigoule
Artichokes simmered lovingly with garlic and parsley — this dish is served throughout southeast France and Italy, and probably has been since Roman times. There are many variations, often with pancetta, breadcrumbs, tomatoes, onions, carrots or white wine. I prefer … Continue reading
Saumon à l’oseille
At some point in the wee hours of this morning, Paris time, views of this culinary blog soared past 100,000. That’s not huge by web standards. Last year I met a fellow at a cookbook conference who told me his … Continue reading
Soupe aux betteraves à l’ukrainienne
This is one of my favorite soups, a recipe I picked up after returning to Paris from a long posting in the USSR. But is it French? In a word, nyet. On the other hand, it’s ‘French style’ for a … Continue reading
Omelette au saumon fumé et aux épinards
One of the keys to making a great omelet is having a great omelet pan. It doesn’t matter too much what it’s made of. I’ve used all kinds — cast iron, stainless steel, nonstick steel or aluminum. What you need … Continue reading
Posted in 4. Omelets, Soufflés, Quiche
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Poires au vin et cassis
Just in time for Valentine’s Day, my favorite winter dessert — pears gently poached in red wine with crème de cassis, rosemary, vanilla, black peppercorns, or other spices. It’s light, it’s bright, it’s meltingly tender. Like (we hope) like the … Continue reading
Gratin de tortiglioni aux lardons
Picture this: A cold winter’s night, a cheery fire, a bottle of red, and a dish that comes to the table hot and bubbling and irresistibly aromatic. What is it? A gratin, of course — pasta and bacon bathed in … Continue reading
Posted in 9. Pasta, Rice, Grains
Tagged bacon, garlic, gratin, pasta, recipe, thyme, tortiglioni
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Soupe aux poireaux caramelisés
Soup, glorious winter soup. The glory being that it’s so simple to make — two leeks, one potato, a little broth and that’s it. A peasant approach to a winter’s supper. And yet, and yet. What lifts this soup out … Continue reading
Posted in 2. Soups
Tagged caramelized, leeks, poireaux caramelises, recipe, soup, vegan
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Blanquette de veau
This most classic of French veal dishes got its name from it’s light-colored creamy sauce. The sauce is more or less white (blanc), and the dish could translate as ‘little white veal stew.’ Ah oui, mes amis, but let’s not … Continue reading


