Crumble d’été aux prunes, pêches et cassis

Posted on August 30, 2013 by Meg

crumble2We are heading into the home stretch toward the first anniversary of this French culinary site, and as it turns out the most popular category of recipes is desserts. So it seems fitting that I should offer you one of my favorite crumbles, a blend of the great fruits of midsummer. Easy to make, lovely to present and, if I may say so, absolutely scrumptious. At least that was my impression when my guests finished every last bit…

Crumble d’été aux prunes, pêches et cassis / Midsummer crumble with plums, peaches and berries

In the last couple of months, this site has been picking up steam, with an increasing number of requests for recipes — and comment from yours truly — from other sites and periodicals around the world. The Everyday French Chef has been featured recently on a culinary site in Australia (All About Cuisines), a British print and web magazine (French Entrée) and a French blog that offers recipes along with a basket of ingredients to prepare them (Foodette). And next week I will be filmed in my kitchen by the French-German television station Arte (more on that later).

Despite this success, the number of subscribers remains far below my target of 10,000 — the number needed, I’ve been told, for publishers to take interest in a cookbook project. So, as the Sept. 10 anniversary approaches, I’d like to propose a little contest — with a great prize. My friend and fellow blogger Ann Mah is about to bring out her long-awaited book Mastering the Art of French Eating. I will offer a free to copy to the person who brings the most new subscribers to this site by the end of September.

Ann’s book has been winning fabulous advance reviews from writers like Patricia Wells, Peter Mayle and Diane Johnson. Her book will be released on Sept. 26. So get out the tom-toms and tell your friends and family about The Everyday French Chef — ‘the modern cook’s guide to creating fabulous French food without spending hours in the kitchen’. They may subscribe via email by clicking on the little envelope at the top of the site, or through the Everyday French Chef page on Facebook. Keep a tally of the people you know who subscribe, and let me know about it via the Contact page at the top of this site. The winner will be announced on Sept. 30.

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Salade estivale

Posted on August 27, 2013 by Meg

melon bresaola1I had a little contest on my culinary Facebook page last week. I asked followers  to choose among three great summer dishes — and the winner got posted on Friday, petits farcis. At the time the weather was glorious, but now showers have come to my corner of Burgundy, with a hint of autumn  in the air. So today I am posting the second of the three, in hopes that there will still be enough magnificent summer weather to enjoy it.

Salade estivale / Summer salad with melon and bresaola

A variation on the more traditional melon with prosciutto, this salad is as easy to prepare as it is lovely to behold. The bresaola — dry cured beef, Italian style — is less rich than cured ham and makes a nice contrast with the sweetness of the melon. And a touch of mint gives the greens in the middle an unexpected zinginess.

Now then — full disclosure. This salad, which I’m posting as a midweek treat, is not the dish that got the second most votes on Facebook. That was a midsummer crumble, and I will post the recipe on Friday. If you’d like to gather the ingredients ahead of time, buy or pick some plums, peaches and berries. You won’t be disappointed. It’s a winner.

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Petits farcis

Posted on August 22, 2013 by Meg

petits farcis4One of my favorite dishes from Provence is petits farcis — small pieces of zucchini, eggplant and tomatoes stuffed with tiny herb-flavored meatballs. Sweet red peppers are often included, but it’s more difficult to get the shape right. When midsummer rolls around and veggies are at their prime, it’s the perfect time for this succulent dish — which may be served as a starter or a main course, accompanied by a chilled dry rosé.

Petits farcis / Stuffed vegetables from Provence

One of those ‘as many variations as there are cooks in France’ dishes, petits farcis may be prepared with ground pork, ground beef, ground lamb, sausage meat or a combination. The vegetables sometimes include artichokes, onions, cabbage and even zucchini flowers. It’s up to you and your imagination. Occasionally referred to as petits farcis niçois, the dish was most typically found in the Nice region along France’s eastern Mediterranean coast in years gone by, but has now migrated northwards and makes regular appearances on the menus of Parisian bistros. But it’s so much fun to make that I prefer to do it at home. Happy cooking!

 

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Haricots verts aux noix en salade

Posted on August 16, 2013 by Meg

green bean salad2Fresh beans with walnuts, garlic and cilantro — if you have ever tasted this superb combination of flavors, you’ll probably always remember it. And you might even know that it’s one of the signature tastes of the former Soviet republic of Georgia. So what is it doing on a French cooking site? I have to admit that I love Georgian cuisine, so much so that I serve my favorite dishes often in France, especially in summer, when pungent salads and grilled meat, fish or veggies straight from the barbecue can make a perfect supper.

Haricots verts aux noix en salade / Green bean salad with walnuts

I had the pleasure of visiting the republic of Georgia twice in the 1980s while working for Reuters — once in the company of George Shultz and once with Margaret Thatcher. Never mind the politics or the visit to Stalin’s birthplace, the gorgeous countryside, Mediterranean climate or warm-hearted people. What knocked my socks off was the food. Melt-in-the-mouth khachapuri, a flatbread filled with melted sulguni cheese; salads of beets or spinach or dried red beans with garlic-and-walnut sauce; chicken grilled over  charcoal and served with a walnut-cilantro sauce or with tkemali sour plum sauce; fabulous soups and dumplings, and the list goes on.

I love making these dishes, and so do various friends who were also lucky enough to be posted to the former Soviet Union in its last years. At a time of momentous change, we feasted on life — and then there was the food, occasionally weird, often wonderful. I hope you will forgive The Everyday French Chef the occasional foray off the beaten path of typical French cooking. There are a couple of Georgian restaurants in Paris, but French chefs have yet to really discover the delights of Georgian cuisine. Until they do, I have no choice but to recreate these great dishes in my own kitchen.

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Saltimbocca à la romaine

Posted on August 8, 2013 by Meg

saltimbocca2For the many years I’ve been making this Roman dish of veal and proscuitto rolled up tightly with garlic and fresh herbs, I’ve always assumed it took its name from the shape of the rolls when they’re sliced after cooking. With only a minor stretch of imagination, they look like little saltimbanques — French for ‘acrobats’ — somersaulting across the plate. As it happens, the Italian name — saltimbocca — translates as ‘jumps into the mouth.’ But is close enough to the Italian word for ‘acrobat’ — saltimbanca — for me to feel vindicated. The unknown originator of the dish no doubt had a taste for word play…

Saltimbocca à la romaine / Rolled veal and proscuitto ‘acrobats’

Whatever its linguistic origins, this flavor-packed dish is a breeze to prepare. While it’s cooking — just 20 minutes — you can make some pasta or a simple salad to serve alongside. In a variation from the original, I usually cut the rolls into thinner slices once they’re cooked to give full display to the pretty acrobat shape. It’s a favorite of my daughter and her teenage friends, and makes a nice dish for warm summer evenings, accompanied by a chilled dry rosé. Happy cooking!

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Grand aïoli

Posted on August 2, 2013 by Meg

When hot weather strikes, no matter where I may be in France, my thoughts turn to Provence. I spent the summer there when I was 19, and fell deeply and irremediably in love with the place. The packed red earth, the shade of the umbrella pines, the cicadas singing in the heat, the dusky figs hanging sweet and low on their branches — all this made my heart beat fast, as though I was coming home to a place I’d known in an earlier life. And when my thoughts turn to Provence, I inevitably want to make aïoli.

Grand aïoli / Cod with vegetables and garlic mayonnaise

Now then, just to be clear. When someone mentions aïoli, they can mean one of two things. The first is the sharp Provençal garlic mayonnaise that bears this name. The second is a dish, sometimes called le Grand aïoli, in which a bowl of the sauce is surrounded by fish, usually cod, hard-boiled eggs, and assorted vegetables. This is a perfect summer dish — fresh, healthy and ever so delicious. Accompanied at dinner by a glass of dry white or rosé, it will send you into the evening in the most mellow way imaginable. If you’re a vegetarian, don’t let that stop you. Simply omit the fish.

Site news: When you have a moment, check out the updated menus for summer. You will find separate categories for everyday and special occasions, for vegetarians, vegans — and, of course, the elegant omnivore. Happy cooking!

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Salade de tomates aux herbes

Posted on July 26, 2013 by Meg

herbal tomato salad 2Now that tomatoes are coming into season, it’s the perfect time of year for serving them as a bright salad liberally sprinkled with fresh herbs. The result is a lovely starter or side dish to a summer meal. And one that’s super easy to make. My favorite combination of herbs, dating back to my Russian summers, is dill and cilantro. They lend an exotic flavor that’s out of this world. In France, the herb most commonly used is parsley, and that’s good, too.

Salade de tomates aux herbes / Herbal tomato salad

But if you prefer basil, go for it. In the Burgundy countryside, where I have failed miserably to grow dill, cilantro or basil, I make this salad with mint from my garden. Surprisingly interesting! It goes without saying that your salad will be as good as the tomatoes you choose. It’s worth spending a little extra at a farmer’s market for locally grown tomatoes. They can’t be beat.

Site news: This being summer, I will be posting recipes once a week on Fridays for the next few weeks. The Everyday French Chef will be back twice a week in September. Happy cooking!

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Tarte aux groseilles et cassis

Posted on July 19, 2013 by Meg

red and black currant tart2Here’s a treat for summer: a luscious tart made from berries that only come around at this time of year. Variations are many. My favorite version is with red and black currants, and I’m lucky enough to have a garden where I can grow them. But most farmers’ markets will also have them in season. So scout around, and if you can’t find fresh currants this recipe also works well with blueberries in midsummer and blackberries in the autumn.

Tarte aux groseilles et cassis / Red and black currant tart

I have sometimes wondered whether this confection might not explain the etymological origin of the phrase ‘fruit tart’ — because the berries, before adding the sugar, are, well, tart. But apparently that is not the case. According to a quick search, the word ‘tart’ meaning ‘sour’ derives from an Old English word, ‘teart’, that means ‘painful’ or ‘sharp’. The English word ‘tart’ meaning ‘pie’ is said to derive from the French word ‘tarte’, but at least one dictionary admits that the idea of sourness may have had some linguistic influence. For those of you who are uninterested in such matters, my apologies. But personally I find this sort of exploration to be, as my friend Lindy says, fruitful research.

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Poulet au pastis

Posted on July 11, 2013 by Meg

provencal chicken 2Take a trip to Provence with this intensely aromatic dish of chicken with tomatoes, fennel, thyme and especially garlic and pastis, the anise-flavored apéritif of southern France. Just the aromas emanating from the kitchen conjure up fields of lavendar and sunny days by the sea. Also known as bouillabaisse de poulet, it is a crowd-pleaser for all seasons — but I prefer to make it in summer, when the weather matches the heat of the cayenne pepper in the sauce. Just last week it was a hit at a going-away dinner for a dear friend…

Poulet au pastis / Provençal chicken with garlic and pastis

What makes this earthy dish really special is the saffron-flavored sauce known as rouille that is served alongside. Like it’s cousin aïoli, rouille is a garlic mayonnaise — but its spices set it apart. It takes some time to prepare, but is well worth the effort.

Site news: Due to technical issues beyond my control (I’ve lost my countryside Internet connection, and am writing this post at the home of kind friends), The Everyday French Chef will be on vacation next week. If by some miracle the French phone company gets the connection working again, I may surprise you with a recipe. Otherwise I will be back on Tuesday, July 23. In the meantime, happy cooking!

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Salade de pois chiches au cumin

Posted on July 9, 2013 by Meg

chick pea salad 2Okay, all you naysayers. It’s really summer now. I’m in Burgundy, where my garden is abundant with beautiful fruit. The cherries are ripening, and there are plenty of raspberries and red currants. And black currants, too — cassis in French — which have been cultivated in France since the 16th century and are a big deal in Burgundy, used to make the sweet dark liqueur of the same name. One of these days I’ll make a tart with them and give you the recipe. For the moment, in a vacation mood, I’m offering an easy summer salad that may be served as a starter, alongside grilled meat or fish, or as a vegetarian dish.

Salade de pois chiches / Chick pea salad with cumin and dill

The trick to this recipe is not to overcook the chick peas. They should be slightly al dente for just a tiny hint of a crunch. The cumin and dill add a Mediterranean flavor that marries well with other everyday French salads — Moroccan carrots, for example, or spicy eggplant caviar. If you plan ahead, you can make all three and take them to a picnic. Many years ago, my friend Julia did just this. We went in a tribe of correspondents and kids to a grassy spot on the shores of the Moscow river. I had brought something unexceptional like roast chicken. When she opened up her containers of spicy fresh Middle Eastern salads, it knocked my socks off. I’ve been making them ever since.

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