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Céleri-rave aux noix sur lit de feuilles
Celeriac, although seen infrequently elsewhere, has long been a staple of French cuisine. When I first arrived in Paris, it appeared most regularly on the mixed veggie plate called assiette de crudités, grated and bathed in a mustardy remoulade sauce. … Continue reading
Posted in 8. Vegetables
Tagged celeriac, Chiltern Firehouse, greens, Mark Bittman, Nuno Mendes, recipe, vegan, walnuts
1 Comment
Mendiants
Sometimes words beggar translation. I can remember, as a student of French, being taught that gourmet meant someone with a discriminating palate, but gourmand meant a glutton. So you can imagine my confusion when, aged 25, out to dinner in … Continue reading
Risotto aux morilles
The morel — morille in French — is a springtime mushroom, but that doesn’t mean we need to wait until spring to enjoy it. Dried morels work wonderfully with any number of dishes, for example this risotto, in which they … Continue reading
Posted in 9. Pasta, Rice, Grains
Tagged dried mushrooms, morels, morilles, recipe, risotto, thanksgiving
4 Comments
Salade tiède de lentilles au saumon fumé
Lentils are often paired with salmon in France. In a twist on that combination, this recipe pairs warm lentils with smoked salmon in an herbal salad that takes the edge off a cold autumn day. It’s country cooking with a … Continue reading
Potage lyonnais
It’s pumpkin season — and as we head from Halloween to Thanksgiving, what could be better than a French pumpkin soup? Not just any kind, but pumpkin soup from Lyon, the heart of French gastronomy. The ingredients read like a … Continue reading
Porc aux légumes d’automne
There’s a wintry chill in the air in Paris, and nightfall comes early these days. It’s the time of year when comfort food makes a welcome appearance on the table. In this recipe, succulent fillet of pork is surrounded by … Continue reading
Prunes poêlées à l’eau de vie
Okay, okay, plums are no longer in season — at least, in the northern hemisphere. But when I happened upon some beautiful blue plums (imported from Spain) at the market last Sunday, I couldn’t resist … because I’d seen a … Continue reading
Posted in Desserts
Tagged brandy, dessert, ice cream, plums, recipe, rodolphe paquin, slivovitz
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Pizza saucisse fenouil maison
This is what is called in French a pizza blanche (or in Italian a pizza bianca), meaning there is no tomato sauce. Instead the pizza dough is coated with olive oil and then scattered with broccoli, smoked mozzarella and … … Continue reading
Posted in 4a. Savory Tarts and Tartines
Tagged broccoli, fennel, pizza, recipe, sausage, scamorza, smoked mozzarella
3 Comments
Moules marinière
This is the best time of year for shellfish in France, and of all types one of the most beloved is the humble mussel. Moules marinière — mussels steamed in white wine — are joyously consumed throughout the country, particularly … Continue reading
Omelette aux broccolis et chèvre frais
It’s nearly lunchtime, the phone rings, a friend is dropping by. What is to be done? Whip up an omelet. It’s easy, it’s quick and you can pair the eggs with just about anything. I’ll never forget the time when … Continue reading
