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Brandade de morue
How to reconcile brandade de morue, one of my favorite winter dishes, with the modern era? A sublimely satisfying purée of salt cod, garlic, olive oil, and milk or cream, with or without potatoes, it has traditionally involved 24-36 hours … Continue reading
Posted in 5. Fish and Shellfish
Tagged brandade, potatoes, Provence, recipe, salt cod
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Rôti de boeuf
The French roast their beef astoundingly quickly. The first time I bought a roast in Paris — where it’s customary to ask the butcher about the cooking time — I nearly fell over when he said to preheat the oven … Continue reading
Crevettes mayonnaise
I first enjoyed a significant French seafood platter in a small seaside town in Normandy during a romantic weekend. The three-tiered tray came to our table brimming with oysters, clams, sea snails, shrimp and a crab set on ice, accompanied … Continue reading
Potée auvergnate
Now that the festivities are behind us, it’s time to get back to simple everyday food. Like this hearty dish from the Auvergne region of central France. Known as potée — literally, a potful — it combines winter vegetables with … Continue reading
Blini
When I first moved to Russia in June 1986, black caviar was not only plentiful and cheap, but also — less than two months after the Chernobyl nuclear disaster — seemed (to me) to be one of the safest foods … Continue reading
Confit de canard
Confit de canard — preserved duck — hails from southwest France and is widely served throughout the country, although it is rarely seen elsewhere. The duck is preserved first in salt and then in fat, usually on the farm where … Continue reading
Céleri-rave aux noix sur lit de feuilles
Celeriac, although seen infrequently elsewhere, has long been a staple of French cuisine. When I first arrived in Paris, it appeared most regularly on the mixed veggie plate called assiette de crudités, grated and bathed in a mustardy remoulade sauce. … Continue reading
Posted in 8. Vegetables
Tagged celeriac, Chiltern Firehouse, greens, Mark Bittman, Nuno Mendes, recipe, vegan, walnuts
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Mendiants
Sometimes words beggar translation. I can remember, as a student of French, being taught that gourmet meant someone with a discriminating palate, but gourmand meant a glutton. So you can imagine my confusion when, aged 25, out to dinner in … Continue reading
Risotto aux morilles
The morel — morille in French — is a springtime mushroom, but that doesn’t mean we need to wait until spring to enjoy it. Dried morels work wonderfully with any number of dishes, for example this risotto, in which they … Continue reading
Posted in 9. Pasta, Rice, Grains
Tagged dried mushrooms, morels, morilles, recipe, risotto, thanksgiving
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Salade tiède de lentilles au saumon fumé
Lentils are often paired with salmon in France. In a twist on that combination, this recipe pairs warm lentils with smoked salmon in an herbal salad that takes the edge off a cold autumn day. It’s country cooking with a … Continue reading
