I first started making cheese soufflés while living in Moscow, where I was posted as a correspondent in the 1980s. Those were dark years with limited options for grocery shopping. But one could always find the ingredients needed for a soufflé — eggs, flour, butter, milk and cheese. I alternated between the recipes of two of my favorite cookbooks — The French Chef Cookbook by the unmatchable Julia Child, my first and most important influence in becoming a French chef, and The Vegetarian Epicure by Anna Thomas, a wonderful book. Over the years I have simplified these recipes to come up with a quick and easy version of this most ethereal of culinary creations.
Soufflé au roquefort / Roquefort soufflé
I don’t know who invented the soufflé but will look into it for future postings. But the bottom line is that this makes a spectacular entry to any meal. As a starter for a special occasion, you may make individual soufflés accompanied by champagne. For a light lunch or supper, follow the soufflé by a green salad and maybe some fruit. As for the cheese itself, if you don’t like roquefort, or don’t have any to hand, many other cheeses work equally well. Experiment, innovate, create…
When I was a kid growing up in the United States, artichokes were considered a great delicacy in my family. But as we lived far from California, where they were grown, they were expensive. My mother would cook a single artichoke for the four of us, cut into quarters. When I came to France and was served a whole artichoke for the first time, I thought it must be a mistake. But artichokes are available everywhere here. They grow wild along the roadside in parts of the south, their crowns bursting into glorious purple bloom if they remain unharvested. So it wasn’t a mistake. I had simply landed in paradise.
Zucchini infused with thyme, garlic and nutmeg and topped with a crust of bubbling cheese — it sounds as good as it tastes. But the best thing about this dish is how easy it is to make. In the time it takes to heat up the oven, you can steam the zucchini, grate the cheese, combine the cream and seasonings, and presto — it’s ready to bake. You may need to double or triple the recipe, because it will have your happy diners clamoring for seconds.
The beauty of the clafoutis is that it is so easy to make. An unpretentious French dessert, it is typically prepared in the spring, with cherries. But why wait half a year to enjoy it? In this late-summer version, pears are first caramelized and then baked in a batter of eggs, sugar, flour and milk. The result, served at tea time or after a meal, is mouth-wateringly delicious.
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