Category Archives: 5. Fish and Shellfish

Dorade au four au pistou

The first question: What exactly is this fish? Dorade, sometimes written daurade in French, has many appelations in English, among them porgy and bream. From a cook’s point of view, it doesn’t much matter – as this recipe works well … Continue reading

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Turbot au four au beurre blanc

Friends were stopping by en route home to England. A birthday lunch was called for. And the guest of honor, having seen the fish on display at my local market, made a special request: Could we please have turbot for … Continue reading

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Sole meunière

In her book My Life in France, Julia Child gives a rapturous account of her first encounter with French cuisine: sole meunière for lunch at a restaurant in Normandy. ‘The flesh of the sole was delicate, with a light but … Continue reading

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Saumon mariné à la russe

With the end-of-year holidays approaching, this Russian-French version of gravalax makes a fine festive dish. The salmon is marinated overnight in salt and sugar — et voilà, it’s ready. Although I enjoyed this dish many times while working in Russia, … Continue reading

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Saumon vapeur au chou

Today begins my ode to the steamer, the most useful article in my kitchen. I use it constantly for fish and vegetables of all kinds. The steamer cooks quickly and cleanly. Flavors remain intense, and none of the vitamins are … Continue reading

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Pavé de cabillaud tout simple

Flaky, white, infused with lemon and a touch of thyme, pan-seared cod with its golden exterior is a dish to daydream about. And maybe, in the not too distant future, merely to dream about — for cod, once an abundantly … Continue reading

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Coquilles saint-jacques au muscat

Scallops sautéed to a glorious crispness, their hearts meltingly tender, with the pungency of garlic and thyme infusing a sauce of ethereal sweetness… That is what this recipe produces, and it takes no more than 10 minutes to prepare. Served … Continue reading

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Spaghettis aux coques

This is the French version of pasta alle vongole, the Italian dish that tastes so seductively of the sea. It is made with cockles, which are abundant along the shores of northern France and England, among other places. If they … Continue reading

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Moules au curry, gambas au pastis, rôti d’agneau aux deux haricots

An esteemed guest was coming to dinner last night — Alison Smale, executive editor of the International Herald Tribune, former colleague of mine when we were both reporters in Moscow in the 1980s, and dear friend. As it was Sunday, … Continue reading

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