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Category Archives: 5. Fish and Shellfish
Brandade de morue
How to reconcile brandade de morue, one of my favorite winter dishes, with the modern era? A sublimely satisfying purée of salt cod, garlic, olive oil, and milk or cream, with or without potatoes, it has traditionally involved 24-36 hours … Continue reading
Posted in 5. Fish and Shellfish
Tagged brandade, potatoes, Provence, recipe, salt cod
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Moules marinière
This is the best time of year for shellfish in France, and of all types one of the most beloved is the humble mussel. Moules marinière — mussels steamed in white wine — are joyously consumed throughout the country, particularly … Continue reading
Rascasse à la tapenade
The fish known as rascasse in French is called scorpion fish or rock fish in English. Apparently the name derives from the Provençal word rascous, meaning ‘rough’ or ‘ornery’. It’s a rather ugly creature and some varieties are even venomous … Continue reading
Posted in 5. Fish and Shellfish
Tagged cod, porgy, rascasse, recipe, rockfish, scorpion fish, striped bass, tapenade
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Bar à l’aïoli
Sea bass, variously known in France as bar (in the north) and loup (in the south), is highly prized because of its delicate flavor and succulent flesh. It is often grilled with fennel stalks over grapevine cuttings during barbecue season. … Continue reading
Posted in 5. Fish and Shellfish
Tagged aioli, asparagus, carrots, garlic mayonnaise, green beans, new potatoes, recipe, sea bass
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Saumon à l’oseille
At some point in the wee hours of this morning, Paris time, views of this culinary blog soared past 100,000. That’s not huge by web standards. Last year I met a fellow at a cookbook conference who told me his … Continue reading
Coulibiac
Coulibiac — it’s a French dish, right? The first time I made this succulent layered fish pie was back in the 1970s, with a Julia Child recipe. But wait. It’s also Russian, isn’t it? They call it kulebiaka and fill … Continue reading
Posted in 5. Fish and Shellfish
Tagged cod, coulibiac, dilled rice, French fish pie, kulebiaka, mushrooms, recipe, salmon, smoked salmon, spinach
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Coquilles saint-jacques aux girolles
This is a French version of surf and turf, a perfect marriage of succulent scallops from the sea and golden chanterelle mushrooms from the forest. I’d been longing to make the dish this autumn, but chanterelles — girolles in French … Continue reading
Grand aïoli
When hot weather strikes, no matter where I may be in France, my thoughts turn to Provence. I spent the summer there when I was 19, and fell deeply and irremediably in love with the place. The packed red earth, … Continue reading
Dorade au four au pistou
The first question: What exactly is this fish? Dorade, sometimes written daurade in French, has many appelations in English, among them porgy and bream. From a cook’s point of view, it doesn’t much matter – as this recipe works well … Continue reading
