Coq au vin

The rooster is the French national bird, an unofficial symbol of Gallic pride, virility and, well, cockiness. Does this make coq au vin the French national dish? Not necessarily, although it’s certainly a contender. Coq au vin is most often associated with Burgundy, although other regions — notably the Auvergne — also lay claim. Rustic fare, coq au vin has existed in one form or another for centuries. In the modern version, you may substitute a big free-range or organic chicken if a good rooster proves hard to find.

Coq au vin

Some food historians date the creation of coq au vin back as far as Caesar’s conquest of Gaul. There may be something to this, for the Latin word gallus signifies both ‘rooster’ and ‘Gallic’. And indeed, if you look around in France, you will see roosters everywhere. In Burgundy, for example, not a cross but a rooster sits proudly on each church’s steeple.

I am offering you this superlative French dish in a spirit of celebration — in time for the holidays and in thanks for your interest and support. As of this week, The Everyday French Chef has received more than 10,000 views. I am very grateful to all my readers for supporting the site and giving me the opportunity to continue writing about two of my great pleasures in life — food and France. Happy cooking!

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Tarte à l’oignon rouge

One of the things I find most amazing about cooking is the way the simplest of ingredients can be turned into a dish that is, frankly, sublime. Red onion tart is such a dish. The onions are gently sautéed with a pinch of thyme, then placed in the tenderest of savory pie shells, sprinkled with cheese, bathed in a mixture of egg, milk and cream, salted, peppered and sprinkled with nutmeg. And all it takes to prepare this creation is one red onion.

Tarte à l’oignon rouge / Red onion tart

While onion tart is ubiquitous in France, red onion tart is less so. Why do I prefer it? Red onions are slightly sweet and tend to caramelize while cooking, lending a flavor that is both earthy and ambrosial. Which is not to deny the appeal of all sorts of French onion tart — from the rich onion pies of the north, with bacon and cream, to the onion pizzas of the south, with anchovies and black olives (pissaladière). Another relative is quiche aux poireaux — leek quiche — which may just come along here one of these days. It is all fine French winter fare. Add a bottle of red, a salad and voilà — dinner is served.

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Saumon vapeur au chou

Today begins my ode to the steamer, the most useful article in my kitchen. I use it constantly for fish and vegetables of all kinds. The steamer cooks quickly and cleanly. Flavors remain intense, and none of the vitamins are lost. It is a fat-free way of cooking. And it is oh so easy. In today’s recipe, the salmon is steamed to rosy perfection, placed on a nest of steamed cabbage, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt. A great combination.

Saumon vapeur au chou / Steamed salmon on a nest of cabbage

Looking ahead, I will soon be offering you another salmon recipe, this one for the holiday season: gravalax, French-Russian style. It is easy to make at home and certain to provoke cheers of delight when you serve it at your festive events. If there are other holiday dishes you would like to see on this site, please leave a comment below. I love hearing from you, and am thrilled to pieces that so many people are consulting the site. We’ve been up and running for less than 3 months, and have had almost 10,000 views. Now that’s really something. Happy cooking!

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Kouglof

We’re nearly into the holiday season and to mark the occasion here is a cake from Alsace, kouglof, which according to one legend is shaped like a turban of the Magi. Not to imply, however, that this is a Christmas cake. It is consumed year-round, for breakfast or at tea time, according to Andrée Hentz, who kindly contributed the recipe. The mother of a friend, she says her family has been in Alsace, on the northwest edge of France, for hundreds of years. They live in a village west of Strasbourg. And they have been making kouglof all that time.

Kouglof / Kouglof cake from Alsace

There are versions of this cake in Austria and Bavaria as well. So how did it get to France? For one thing, says Madame Hentz, after the Thirty Years War (back in the 1600s, but of course you remembered that), a third of the population of Alsace had been wiped out and their villages burned to the ground. Once the war ended and the region reverted to France, it was repopulated, and the new arrivals brought their culinary traditions with them. So when Catholic Austrians arrived, for example, they said of the Alsatians, “Let them eat cake.” (Just kidding.) According to another story, Marie-Antoinette, the Austrian princess who married the future Louis XVI of France, liked kouglof so much that she introduced it to the French court. Whichever is true, you will enjoy yourself royally if you attempt this cake, which admittedly takes a bit longer to make than most recipes on this site — but has the advantage of being copious enough to last for breakfast all week long.

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Tagine de poulet aux pruneaux et aux amandes

The tagine is a Moroccan stew typically made with chicken or lamb cooked with dried fruit and nuts, or with olives, preserved lemon or really any vegetable combination — eggplant, carrots, tomatoes, potatoes. I think I can safely say that the tagine has entered the French culinary repertoire, and not only because it is ubiquitous in France these days. The elegance of the spices, the delicacy of the stew, make this dish worthy of inclusion. And in fact I love tagines so much that I am offering you more than this first one.

Tagine de poulet aux pruneaux et aux amandes / Moroccan chicken with prunes, almonds and honey

A second tagine is included in the recipe, and it’s my favorite — Tagine de poulet aux olives et au citron confit. It receives second billing because the preserved lemon and the right kind of slightly bitter olives may be harder to find outside of France, but it’s a star nonetheless. Both of these recipes take a small liberty with Moroccan tradition in that I suggest browning the chicken as a first step. A French friend whose mother is Moroccan insists that the meat in a tagine should be boiled, never browned first. But in my many years of making this dish I’ve always done it the same way, with spectacular results. So it’s a liberty I’m prepared to concede. You can try it either way. Let me know what works…

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Salade de carottes à la marocaine

Does North African cooking count as French cuisine? I had dinner a couple nights ago with friends who insist that it does. ‘After all,’ said Jack, ‘when the French are asked to name their favorite food, the dish that comes up most often is couscous.’ And indeed, the influences back and forth between France and its former colonies are so strong that North African cuisine can be found virtually around every corner here. This Moroccan carrot salad — fresh, flavorful and oh so spicy — will transport you to a hot and exotic land.

Salade de carottes à la marocaine / Spicy carrot salad, Moroccan style

I generally serve these spicy carrots as a starter, often with one or two other starters from the region — caviar d’aubergine or roasted peppers, for example. But they also work well as a side dish. Last night I served them alongside spicy roast chicken and couscous. Inspired by Jack’s superb lamb tagine with eggplant and olives, I plan to continue with Moroccan cuisine on Friday. The recipe from my neighborhood chef will have to wait.

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Mayonnaise

mayo1Let’s demystify mayonnaise — one of France’s most versatile and elegant sauces. It is reputedly so difficult to make that only culinary experts should attempt it. Guess what The Everyday French Chef has to say to that? Poppycock. If you have the ingredients on hand, you can whip up a bowlful in less than five minutes. And the results are spectacular. Once you’ve tried it, you may find yourself singing, ‘Ain’t nothin’ like the real thing, baby, nothin’ like the real thing…’

This sauce may be used with vegetables, cold roast meat, or simply with hard-boiled eggs to make one of the best loved starters in the classic French repertoire, oeufs durs mayonnaise, which I offer you today as a bonus.

For a video demonstration showing how to make the mayonnaise, click here.

eggsmayo1Mayonnaise / French mayonnaise
Oeufs durs mayonnaise / Hard-boiled eggs with French mayonnaise

My neighbors in the French countryside, enthusiastic consumers of mayonnaise, make it so often that they started using a blender, mixing the whole egg instead of just the yolk with oil, salt and mustard. The result is acceptable, but not as delicate as a proper mayonnaise made without the egg whites. I wouldn’t recommend it, especially because you can make the same quantity in the same amount of time using a small spoon, easier to wash than a blender. Different versions of French mayonnaise include aïoli from Provence (garlic mayo) and rouille (saffron-hot pepper mayo), also from the south of France. We will get to them in due course — but once you’ve got the mayo technique down, you can probably wing it. Just have a sip of wine, keep a steady hand, and stir. Easy as can be.

Site news: The Menus section of this site has been updated with new menu suggestions for autumn, including everyday meals and meals for weekends and special occasions, as well as a new page with autumn meals for vegetarians and vegans. Next week I’m thinking of posting a new recipe for fish, probably salmon (but don’t hold me to that), and possibly also a recipe from one of my favorite neighborhood chefs, a specialist in southern French cuisine. In the meantime, happy cooking!

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Cailles rôties

Perfect for one, two or a crowd, quail makes a fine dish both for holidays and every day. And the good news is that quail is far easier to find these days, both in France — where the birds are farmed now — and in the States (there was a recent New York Times article on where to find quail in Manhattan). In this recipe, the birds are basted with a marinade of olive oil, cumin, ground coriander seeds and garlic and roasted in a very hot oven to produce a crispy, juicy, flavorful dish. A dish that could be served on Thanksgiving with pomegranate relish — far lighter than cranberry sauce — and perhaps some couscous.

Cailles rôties / Roast quail
Grenade en salade / Pomegranate relish

This is the second installment of my proposals for Thanksgiving with a French/Mediterranean twist, and I’d like to use it to pay homage to my favorite American writer on French food, Patricia Wells, who over the years has been an absolute inspiration to me. The quail recipe described above is similar to one in her wonderful cookbook Patricia Wells at Home in Provence, which I’ve been using since it came out in 1996. An earlier book by Wells, Bistro Cooking, has gone around the world with me, allowing me to produce French meals with panache in places as farflung as Moscow and Manila. Patricia Wells and I were colleagues at the International Herald Tribune in the 1980s and ’90s. Like me, she grew up in Wisconsin. If you have not yet tried out her cookbooks, I encourage you to do so — they’re well-written, informative and the recipes are fantastic.

Just as a reminder, this site’s first Thanksgiving offering was stuffed pumpkin, perfect for vegetarians, and you may also want to take a fresh look at sweet potatoes with herbs. On Friday, the third and final installment of this Thanksgiving special, The Everyday French Chef will be offering a recipe for homemade mayonnaise — perfect for turkey sandwiches, and not nearly as hard to make as you may fear. In fact it takes about three minutes. If you’d like to shop for this ahead of time, get some very fresh eggs, free-range or organic, as well as a lemon, Dijon mustard and some salad oil — sunflower, safflower, whatever, but not olive oil, which is too heavy for this sauce. Happy Thanksgiving!

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Potimarron farci

Potimarron5I first tasted this dish in the home of Valérie Lapierre, a superlative cook. She and another friend, an artist, had concocted a fabulous meal but refused to say what the main course would be. And then they arrived bearing dinner plates, each with its own small stuffed pumpkin. The pumpkins’ caps were lifted. An amazing aroma escaped. Spoons were dipped in. Out came succulent baked pumpkin and a filling of mushrooms, onions and cheese. It was one of the best things I’ve ever tasted, and quintessentially French.

Potimarron farci / Stuffed pumpkin

This is the first installment of two special posts for Thanksgiving with a French/Mediterranean twist. It is an ideal main dish for vegetarians, hearty and festive, and also for anyone wishing to take some liberties while still sticking close to the Thanksgiving theme. (I can guarantee you that if you make this dish — which does take a little time — you will feel truly thankful when you taste it…) The second installment, on Tuesday, will be roast quail with pomegranate relish. In the meantime, happy cooking!

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Tartiflette

This is a cold-weather dish most commonly encountered in the Alpine ski resorts of eastern France: potatoes, onions, bacon and flavorful reblochon cheese baked together to make a mouth-watering one-dish meal. But tartiflette has become so popular that restaurants from Burgundy to the Pyrenees now serve it. The name derives from a word for potatoes, tartifla, that is used in Italy and Provence — but, oddly, not in Savoie

Tartiflette / Savoyard potato gratin with bacon

According to various culinary sources, the dish was traditionally known in Savoie not as tartiflette but as péla, named for the long-handled pan in which it was cooked over a fire. Things began changing around 30 years ago when the cheesemakers who produce reblochon — a pungent soft cheese made from cow’s milk — decided to try to boost sales of their product. When exactly péla morphed into tartiflette is not clear to me. But judging by my 1969 edition of Le Petit Robert, one of France’s most authoritative dictionaries, today’s word for this very well-known dish had not yet entered the language just 43 years ago.

Thanksgiving alert: In honor of the American holiday, which takes place next Thursday, and with my thoughts turning to those without big families nearby, I will be posting some recipes for an alternative Thanksgiving dinner with a French/Mediterranean twist. The menu includes roast quail (or Cornish game hen), pomegranate relish and, for vegetarians, a fabulous stuffed pumpkin recipe from one of the best French home chefs I know. The recipes will go up Sunday or Tuesday, depending on when I get time to do the cooking and photography. Just letting you know in advance to allow you to start hunting for quail…

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