I never tasted mussels before arriving in Paris as a young woman. They just weren’t available far from the sea in the American Midwest, where I grew up. But even though Paris is about two hours by road from the nearest coastline (the Channel), all kinds of ultrafresh seafood can be found in abundance here. Mussels are cheap, easy to prepare and they delight the palate with their slightly sweet and nutty flavor. They marry well with other tastes, including spices like curry or, as in this soup, saffron.
Soupe de moules au safran / Mussel soup with saffron
Saffron is, of course, expensive, but the amount needed for this recipe won’t break the bank. Counter to standard wisdom, I prefer powdered saffron to the stringy kind — it’s easier to use and, in my view, just as flavorful. Saffron is pricey because it comes from a type of crocus that lives for a single day — the threads must be harvested on that day, and within a window of a couple of hours! It is one of my favorite spices, redolent of the luxury of Arabian nights. The way it enhances mussels is magical. Try it and see.
This is the longest and dreariest winter I can remember in my more than 30 years in Paris. Gray, gray, gray every day, and it keeps snowing at a time of year when the café tables have usually started to come out, giving Parisians a chance to sip an apéritif in the sun and enjoy the lift that comes with the feeling that spring is just around the corner. By late February I normally get an itchy feeling in my fingers telling me it’s time to go down to Burgundy and trim the raspberry bushes. None such this year. Instead, I’m working on creating cheery winter dishes that can warm the soul on a cold and blowy night.
