Tarte aux groseilles et cassis

red and black currant tart2Here’s a treat for summer: a luscious tart made from berries that only come around at this time of year. Variations are many. My favorite version is with red and black currants, and I’m lucky enough to have a garden where I can grow them. But most farmers’ markets will also have them in season. So scout around, and if you can’t find fresh currants this recipe also works well with blueberries in midsummer and blackberries in the autumn.

Tarte aux groseilles et cassis / Red and black currant tart

I have sometimes wondered whether this confection might not explain the etymological origin of the phrase ‘fruit tart’ — because the berries, before adding the sugar, are, well, tart. But apparently that is not the case. According to a quick search, the word ‘tart’ meaning ‘sour’ derives from an Old English word, ‘teart’, that means ‘painful’ or ‘sharp’. The English word ‘tart’ meaning ‘pie’ is said to derive from the French word ‘tarte’, but at least one dictionary admits that the idea of sourness may have had some linguistic influence. For those of you who are uninterested in such matters, my apologies. But personally I find this sort of exploration to be, as my friend Lindy says, fruitful research.

Posted in Desserts | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Poulet au pastis

provencal chicken 2Take a trip to Provence with this intensely aromatic dish of chicken with tomatoes, fennel, thyme and especially garlic and pastis, the anise-flavored apéritif of southern France. Just the aromas emanating from the kitchen conjure up fields of lavendar and sunny days by the sea. Also known as bouillabaisse de poulet, it is a crowd-pleaser for all seasons — but I prefer to make it in summer, when the weather matches the heat of the cayenne pepper in the sauce. Just last week it was a hit at a going-away dinner for a dear friend…

Poulet au pastis / Provençal chicken with garlic and pastis

What makes this earthy dish really special is the saffron-flavored sauce known as rouille that is served alongside. Like it’s cousin aïoli, rouille is a garlic mayonnaise — but its spices set it apart. It takes some time to prepare, but is well worth the effort.

Site news: Due to technical issues beyond my control (I’ve lost my countryside Internet connection, and am writing this post at the home of kind friends), The Everyday French Chef will be on vacation next week. If by some miracle the French phone company gets the connection working again, I may surprise you with a recipe. Otherwise I will be back on Tuesday, July 23. In the meantime, happy cooking!

Posted in 6. Poultry | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Salade de pois chiches au cumin

chick pea salad 2Okay, all you naysayers. It’s really summer now. I’m in Burgundy, where my garden is abundant with beautiful fruit. The cherries are ripening, and there are plenty of raspberries and red currants. And black currants, too — cassis in French — which have been cultivated in France since the 16th century and are a big deal in Burgundy, used to make the sweet dark liqueur of the same name. One of these days I’ll make a tart with them and give you the recipe. For the moment, in a vacation mood, I’m offering an easy summer salad that may be served as a starter, alongside grilled meat or fish, or as a vegetarian dish.

Salade de pois chiches / Chick pea salad with cumin and dill

The trick to this recipe is not to overcook the chick peas. They should be slightly al dente for just a tiny hint of a crunch. The cumin and dill add a Mediterranean flavor that marries well with other everyday French salads — Moroccan carrots, for example, or spicy eggplant caviar. If you plan ahead, you can make all three and take them to a picnic. Many years ago, my friend Julia did just this. We went in a tribe of correspondents and kids to a grassy spot on the shores of the Moscow river. I had brought something unexceptional like roast chicken. When she opened up her containers of spicy fresh Middle Eastern salads, it knocked my socks off. I’ve been making them ever since.

Posted in 1. Starters | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Courgettes sautées à l’ail

zucchini with garlic 2If you have a garden, raising zucchini is a challenge. Not in the sense that it’s hard to grow — no. Rather, how to use its abundance. The courgette season has not yet begun in northern France due to our dismal spring, but when it starts it will start with a vengeance. Once I’ve made zucchini soup, zucchini salad, stuffed zucchini, steamed zucchini and zucchini gratin, I can run out of ideas. Then I remember this fabulously simple recipe.

Courgettes sautées à l’ail / Zucchini sautéed with garlic

Preparing zucchini this way is child’s play. You slice it, brown it in olive oil, add some garlic and thyme and — voilà. A dish that will fill your kitchen with the delicious aromas of southern France. It marries well with virtually every kind of meat and fish (although I would avoid serving it beside cream sauces). And you can make it early in the day and reheat it when suppertime rolls around, or when your grilled sausages are ready to come off the barbecue. I learned this recipe from my downstairs neighbor Manuela, whose kitchen is a delight of dishes with a Riviera flavor. Her husband is Italian and a wonderful everyday chef himself. Thank you, Manuela!

Posted in 8. Vegetables | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Cerises à l’eau de vie

cherries in brandy 4It’s cherry season now, but it won’t last forever. Once you’ve eaten your fill, made jam and a cherry pie, what is to be done? You adore the flavor of this beautiful fleshy red fruit and can’t stand the thought that cherries will soon disappear from markets for 11 months. The solution, my friends, is easy: Preserve them in brandy, in any of its forms: eau de vie, Cognac, Armagnac, grappa, or — as in my corner of Burgundy — Marc de Bourgogne. Wait a few months, and you’ll have an after-dinner pleasure to enjoy by the fireside.

Cerises à l’eau de vie / Cherries in brandy

I made these the other day and it took literally 5 minutes. The most time consuming part is finding the right kind of cherries and brandy and jars, as explained in the recipe. Then you snip the stems, pile everything into the jars and put them aside to mature. The cherries will darken in color and their pits and stems will add a nutty nuance to the flavor. Don’t yield to temptation and open the jars too early, for you will be so thoroughly seduced by the luscious odor that you may eat the cherries too soon. It’s worth the wait of at least three months to achieve this perfectly sweet and delightfully inebriating  treat.

cherries in brandy 1cherries in brandy 6At right, the cherries as they look on Day 1 and at Year 3. Once sealed in their jars, they may be kept for many years.

Posted in Et cetera | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Rôti de canard au romarin

roast duck 3Duck is often viewed as a winter dish, but in France it is served all through the year — with figs or apples in the fall, preserved in its own fat (confit) in winter, with new turnips or cherries in the spring. And in summer, duck comes into its own, whether barbecued over charcoal or, as here, prepared as a roast that is surprisingly light and flavorful. It may be served hot or, in warm weather, cold with an assortment of salads and a good rosé.

Rôti de canard au romarin / Rolled roast of duck with rosemary

The trick to making this roast as an everyday (read: easy) dish is having a butcher who will prepare it for you by tying two duck fillets together. Then all you have to do is add some garlic and rosemary and pop it into the oven. If such a butcher is not available where you live, you can tie the fillets together yourself as explained in the recipe. This requires some patience, but it’s not impossible. As for finding the duck fillets — omnipresent in France —  there are suppliers online in both the States and the UK. And elsewhere too if you scout around. The roast duck may be accompanied by a wide variety of sauces and I can guarantee it’s a crowd pleaser. Happy cooking!

Posted in 6. Poultry | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Caviar d’aubergine épicé

caviar aubergine 1A friend was giving me a hard time the other day because I mentioned that it was now summer. ‘Who are you trying to kid?’ she retorted. And, yes, when I looked at the outdoor thermometer right now, it told me it’s 12 degrees Celsius this morning — that’s in the low 50s Fahrenheit. Well, right. But never mind. It is summer, even if we had to wear heavy sweaters around the barbecue last night. And even if you have to conjure up an image of yourself in warmer surroundings to enjoy this spicy summer starter…

Caviar d’aubergine épicé / Spicy eggplant caviar

This is a typical Mediterranean mezze dish that made its way to France most likely via Lebanon or Greece. And I usually serve it with other similar dishes, to have a least three hors’doeuvres on the table. For example, with Moroccan carrots and tomatoes with mozzarella, or a simple arugula salad. But even on its own, it makes a smashing start to a meal. Happy cooking!

Posted in 1. Starters | Leave a comment

Soupe de concombre aux herbes

cucumber soup 1Here’s a summer soup that’s cool as a cucumber, with a little spice for heat and lots of fresh herbs. I chose parsley, cilantro and dill, but variations are endless. Try it with mint or basil, or both. You can add more spice by mincing in a chili, or flavor the soup with a finely chopped spring onion (green onion) on top. For another variation, add some curry powder — the soup will turn a bright yellow-green. Serve it cold as a first course, and if you have lots of people at your table, double or triple the recipe. There will be calls for seconds.

Soupe de concombre aux herbes / Cucumber soup with fresh herbs

Beyond its value as a delightful and healthy start to a meal, this soup has the advantage of being very quick to make — 5-10 minutes, depending on how quickly you chop. And, as I discovered when there was a little left over, the soup may be used as a sauce! Think of it as a green sauce to be spooned, for example, over cold roast lamb, roast chicken, poached salmon or asparagus. Far lighter than hollandaise or mayo, it will add a nice accent to your summer dishes as the hot weather kicks in.

Site news: The print button is fixed now, and I hope I can dare to say that the technical problems that cropped up during the hacking of this site are now all cleared up. Happy cooking!

Posted in 2. Soups | Tagged , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Tarte aux framboises

raspberry tart 1There’s nothing so pleasing in early summer as a raspberry tart. Just thinking of it evokes the garden of my Aunt Marge back in Wisconsin. She was a potter and had lush raspberry bushes in her front yard, the red fruit hanging sweet and heavy on the branches. I’m not sure I’ve ever encountered raspberries as delicious as those. Except when making this tart…

Tarte aux framboises / Raspberry tart

It takes a little forward planning to concoct this confection. First, the tart shell needs to be prepared and baked in advance. Then you need to make a bowl of French pastry cream. And finally you assemble it all, with the ripe berries on top painted with bright red jam as a glaze. I did it the other evening and there were smiles all around. Well worth the effort.

Site news: There are continuing problems with the ‘print this page’ button, and now some subscribers tell me they are not receiving their regular email updates. All of this stems from the hacking of this site, as reported a couple weeks ago. I am trying to get it all fixed and back to normal. Thank you for bearing with me.

Posted in Desserts | Leave a comment

Kefta

kefta 5We’re heading south for the summer. On Tuesday, it was Provence. Today it’s the Mediterranean coast, for the spicy, herbal grilled ground-meat sausages or meatballs known here as kefta. But are they French, you may well ask? Originally, no. Kefta and variations thereon have been made for centuries around the Mediterranean rim, from Morocco to Egypt, Lebanon, Syria, Turkey and the Balkans. In Paris, they appear on the menus of ethnic restaurants — and now also turn up on occasion in classy French bistros.

Kefta / Spicy Mediterranean meatballs

I love making kefta because it’s the kind of dish you can really get your hands into — literally. You add the spices and herbs to the ground meat and plunge in with your hands, blend it all together and form it into homemade sausages or little balls, just like women did throughout the many thousands of years before the invention of the Cuisinart. And the preparation takes less than 5 minutes! It’s the kind of very quick dish my friend Ann Mah likes to feature on her blog’s Tuesday Dinner page.

Kefta are best grilled on a barbecue, and if you have one, go for it. But as that is not a feature of most urban kitchens, there is another solution. Roast the kefta in an oven so hot that you obtain a tandoori effect. They meat will be browned on the outside and tender and juicy on the inside. You can serve them on their own, or drizzled with tahini sauce, as shown above. With a couple of Mediterranean salads and some fresh herbs alongside, it’s a perfect dish for summer.

Posted in 7. Meat Dishes | Tagged , , | Leave a comment