Courgettes sautées à l’ail

zucchini with garlic 2If you have a garden, raising zucchini is a challenge. Not in the sense that it’s hard to grow — no. Rather, how to use its abundance. The courgette season has not yet begun in northern France due to our dismal spring, but when it starts it will start with a vengeance. Once I’ve made zucchini soup, zucchini salad, stuffed zucchini, steamed zucchini and zucchini gratin, I can run out of ideas. Then I remember this fabulously simple recipe.

Courgettes sautées à l’ail / Zucchini sautéed with garlic

Preparing zucchini this way is child’s play. You slice it, brown it in olive oil, add some garlic and thyme and — voilà. A dish that will fill your kitchen with the delicious aromas of southern France. It marries well with virtually every kind of meat and fish (although I would avoid serving it beside cream sauces). And you can make it early in the day and reheat it when suppertime rolls around, or when your grilled sausages are ready to come off the barbecue. I learned this recipe from my downstairs neighbor Manuela, whose kitchen is a delight of dishes with a Riviera flavor. Her husband is Italian and a wonderful everyday chef himself. Thank you, Manuela!

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Cerises à l’eau de vie

cherries in brandy 4It’s cherry season now, but it won’t last forever. Once you’ve eaten your fill, made jam and a cherry pie, what is to be done? You adore the flavor of this beautiful fleshy red fruit and can’t stand the thought that cherries will soon disappear from markets for 11 months. The solution, my friends, is easy: Preserve them in brandy, in any of its forms: eau de vie, Cognac, Armagnac, grappa, or — as in my corner of Burgundy — Marc de Bourgogne. Wait a few months, and you’ll have an after-dinner pleasure to enjoy by the fireside.

Cerises à l’eau de vie / Cherries in brandy

I made these the other day and it took literally 5 minutes. The most time consuming part is finding the right kind of cherries and brandy and jars, as explained in the recipe. Then you snip the stems, pile everything into the jars and put them aside to mature. The cherries will darken in color and their pits and stems will add a nutty nuance to the flavor. Don’t yield to temptation and open the jars too early, for you will be so thoroughly seduced by the luscious odor that you may eat the cherries too soon. It’s worth the wait of at least three months to achieve this perfectly sweet and delightfully inebriating  treat.

cherries in brandy 1cherries in brandy 6At right, the cherries as they look on Day 1 and at Year 3. Once sealed in their jars, they may be kept for many years.

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Rôti de canard au romarin

roast duck 3Duck is often viewed as a winter dish, but in France it is served all through the year — with figs or apples in the fall, preserved in its own fat (confit) in winter, with new turnips or cherries in the spring. And in summer, duck comes into its own, whether barbecued over charcoal or, as here, prepared as a roast that is surprisingly light and flavorful. It may be served hot or, in warm weather, cold with an assortment of salads and a good rosé.

Rôti de canard au romarin / Rolled roast of duck with rosemary

The trick to making this roast as an everyday (read: easy) dish is having a butcher who will prepare it for you by tying two duck fillets together. Then all you have to do is add some garlic and rosemary and pop it into the oven. If such a butcher is not available where you live, you can tie the fillets together yourself as explained in the recipe. This requires some patience, but it’s not impossible. As for finding the duck fillets — omnipresent in France —  there are suppliers online in both the States and the UK. And elsewhere too if you scout around. The roast duck may be accompanied by a wide variety of sauces and I can guarantee it’s a crowd pleaser. Happy cooking!

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Caviar d’aubergine épicé

caviar aubergine 1A friend was giving me a hard time the other day because I mentioned that it was now summer. ‘Who are you trying to kid?’ she retorted. And, yes, when I looked at the outdoor thermometer right now, it told me it’s 12 degrees Celsius this morning — that’s in the low 50s Fahrenheit. Well, right. But never mind. It is summer, even if we had to wear heavy sweaters around the barbecue last night. And even if you have to conjure up an image of yourself in warmer surroundings to enjoy this spicy summer starter…

Caviar d’aubergine épicé / Spicy eggplant caviar

This is a typical Mediterranean mezze dish that made its way to France most likely via Lebanon or Greece. And I usually serve it with other similar dishes, to have a least three hors’doeuvres on the table. For example, with Moroccan carrots and tomatoes with mozzarella, or a simple arugula salad. But even on its own, it makes a smashing start to a meal. Happy cooking!

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Soupe de concombre aux herbes

cucumber soup 1Here’s a summer soup that’s cool as a cucumber, with a little spice for heat and lots of fresh herbs. I chose parsley, cilantro and dill, but variations are endless. Try it with mint or basil, or both. You can add more spice by mincing in a chili, or flavor the soup with a finely chopped spring onion (green onion) on top. For another variation, add some curry powder — the soup will turn a bright yellow-green. Serve it cold as a first course, and if you have lots of people at your table, double or triple the recipe. There will be calls for seconds.

Soupe de concombre aux herbes / Cucumber soup with fresh herbs

Beyond its value as a delightful and healthy start to a meal, this soup has the advantage of being very quick to make — 5-10 minutes, depending on how quickly you chop. And, as I discovered when there was a little left over, the soup may be used as a sauce! Think of it as a green sauce to be spooned, for example, over cold roast lamb, roast chicken, poached salmon or asparagus. Far lighter than hollandaise or mayo, it will add a nice accent to your summer dishes as the hot weather kicks in.

Site news: The print button is fixed now, and I hope I can dare to say that the technical problems that cropped up during the hacking of this site are now all cleared up. Happy cooking!

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Tarte aux framboises

raspberry tart 1There’s nothing so pleasing in early summer as a raspberry tart. Just thinking of it evokes the garden of my Aunt Marge back in Wisconsin. She was a potter and had lush raspberry bushes in her front yard, the red fruit hanging sweet and heavy on the branches. I’m not sure I’ve ever encountered raspberries as delicious as those. Except when making this tart…

Tarte aux framboises / Raspberry tart

It takes a little forward planning to concoct this confection. First, the tart shell needs to be prepared and baked in advance. Then you need to make a bowl of French pastry cream. And finally you assemble it all, with the ripe berries on top painted with bright red jam as a glaze. I did it the other evening and there were smiles all around. Well worth the effort.

Site news: There are continuing problems with the ‘print this page’ button, and now some subscribers tell me they are not receiving their regular email updates. All of this stems from the hacking of this site, as reported a couple weeks ago. I am trying to get it all fixed and back to normal. Thank you for bearing with me.

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Kefta

kefta 5We’re heading south for the summer. On Tuesday, it was Provence. Today it’s the Mediterranean coast, for the spicy, herbal grilled ground-meat sausages or meatballs known here as kefta. But are they French, you may well ask? Originally, no. Kefta and variations thereon have been made for centuries around the Mediterranean rim, from Morocco to Egypt, Lebanon, Syria, Turkey and the Balkans. In Paris, they appear on the menus of ethnic restaurants — and now also turn up on occasion in classy French bistros.

Kefta / Spicy Mediterranean meatballs

I love making kefta because it’s the kind of dish you can really get your hands into — literally. You add the spices and herbs to the ground meat and plunge in with your hands, blend it all together and form it into homemade sausages or little balls, just like women did throughout the many thousands of years before the invention of the Cuisinart. And the preparation takes less than 5 minutes! It’s the kind of very quick dish my friend Ann Mah likes to feature on her blog’s Tuesday Dinner page.

Kefta are best grilled on a barbecue, and if you have one, go for it. But as that is not a feature of most urban kitchens, there is another solution. Roast the kefta in an oven so hot that you obtain a tandoori effect. They meat will be browned on the outside and tender and juicy on the inside. You can serve them on their own, or drizzled with tahini sauce, as shown above. With a couple of Mediterranean salads and some fresh herbs alongside, it’s a perfect dish for summer.

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Salade mesclun à l’huile de noix

mesclun 6I first encountered mesclun at a charming inn near Saint-Paul-de-Vence, in one of the most breathtaking corners of Provence. We lunched at a sun-splashed table, caressed by the aromas wafting over from fields of lavender and wild thyme. Was that was made it so fabulous? When they brought out this simple salad, nothing could have tasted fresher, lighter, closer to the earth. For mesclun — which means ‘mixture’ in Provençal — is composed of new leaves, at least seven varieties, of the herbs and lettuce that grow naturally in the region.

Salade mesclun à l’huile de noix / Salad of mixed greens from Provence

Traditionally, mesclun is served with a dressing of extra-virgin olive oil with lemon and, sometimes, mustard. In this version, the olive oil is blended with walnut oil and balsamic vinegar to produce a deeply satisfying taste. Mesclun may be served as a first course — possibly with something beside it, like cured country ham or goat cheese bathed in olive oil and fresh thyme — or as a side dish, or after the meal and before the dessert. It deserves the freshest of bread alongside. Guaranteed to please.

Site news: Many thanks to all of you who have borne with me while I dealt with the hacking of this web site. As of today, I can report that the hackers have been expelled and the site is back to normal, with recipes appearing every Tuesday and Friday. It was a major hassle to get rid of the intruders, but I learned a lot. And now that it’s over, what can I say? Very, very relieved to be back to my usual role — of happily cooking.

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Uncloaked: How hackers attacked The Everyday French Chef

The Everyday French Chef is a cooking blog, but as it happens this particular food blogger is also a journalist with a background in investigative reporting. What follows is my report on how cybercriminals penetrated this web site with links offering ‘payday loans’ at high interest rates – a scheme that could also aim to lure the unwary into revealing personal information to internet fraudsters involved in the multimillion dollar business of identity theft. I followed them along an international trail that led from Czech Republic to Russia, Canada, Germany and the United States. The technique they used is called ‘cloak hacking.’

Meg BortinFirst, let me introduce myself. I’m Meg Bortin, an American journalist, writer and food blogger based in Paris. Last autumn I launched The Everyday French Chef, where I post recipes twice a week. The site is totally nonprofit. My sole aim has been to attract a sufficient following to be able to publish a cookbook. While the site has proved successful, it hasn’t gone viral in the way I hoped it might. With fewer than 300 followers, I never imagined that cybercriminals would taken an interest in me.

I was alerted to the fact that there was a problem just over a week ago, when my brother in California forwarded the email update he had received from my site that morning. To my surprise, above my link to a recipe for fresh sorrel soup was another link, not inserted by me, saying ‘INSTANT payday loans online.’ I clicked on the link and found myself on a site called blatpaydayloans.com soliciting readers to apply for quick cash advances. I thanked my brother and got in touch with a French web designer who helps me with technical aspects of the site.

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At first we thought the problem was emanating from Feedburner, a Google service that sends out email updates each time I put up a new blog post. My French consultant suggested that I change my Feedburner password, which I did, before putting up a new post. Unfortunately, the email update for this post, too, was penetrated by an intruder. Inserted above the link to my recipe for rhubarb-strawberry soup, it said ‘additional info.’ I clicked on the link and found myself on payday2loans3.com, another cash-advance site.

A payday loan, I was to learn, is a short-term loan meant to be repaid by the borrower’s next payday. Interest rates are astronomical. For example, a borrower might be charged $15 in interest on a 2-week loan of $100. That works out to an interest rate of 390 percent a year. But at a time when many people are suffering from the economic downturn, it’s not hard to imagine that, as the bills pile up, they may be taken in by offers of quick cash.

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By late last week, with my French consultant on a train to Alsace for a wedding, I decided to seek assistance elsewhere. My first port of call was the technical support team at GoDaddy, the Internet company that hosts my web site. I explained the problem, but was told that while GoDaddy maintained security on its side, it was not responsible for security on the user side – i.e. people with the web sites it hosts.

Not to be stymied, I decided to try to find out more about the hackers. I went back to the ‘INSTANT payday loans online’ site and clicked on their Contacts page. What came up was an address in Austinburg, Ohio, and a phone number.

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I dialed the number but a recorded message said that the phone had been disconnected. Then I tried to locate the address via Google Maps. It did not appear to exist.

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At this point, getting angrier by the minute about having become the target of hackers, I decided to get in touch with the Better Business Bureau for the Austinburg district. It turned out to be in Cleveland. I was put in touch with Lou Tekavcic, a trade specialist at the bureau, who confirmed that the Austinburg address did not exist and very helpfully supplied me with information from WHOIS, a registry of information about web users worldwide.

WHOIS identified both payday loan sites as having been recently created – the ‘blatpaydayloans’ site on April 22 and the ‘payday2loan3’ site on May 28, just three days before it was surreptitiously inserted into my blog. (I later learned that other payday loan sites had been inserted as early as March). WHOIS also identified both sites as being registered with the same domain manager, a company called Gransy located in Pardubice, a small city in Czech Republic about 60 miles east of Prague.

This does not mean that Gransy was responsible for the hacking. The domains are registered through the Czech company, but Gransy has nothing to do with how people use the web sites registered there. Still, it was the first link in a chain.

I looked Gransy up on Google to try to get more information about the company, and discovered that it manages hundreds of thousands of Internet domains, along with a sister company called Regtons. Determined to get to the bottom of this, I went to the Contact page on the Regtons site and found a Prague phone number, which I promptly called. I wanted to know whether Gransy/Regtons was aware that domains it had registered were being used by hackers. The man who answered spoke enough English for us to understand each other. He said that all queries had to be emailed.

The last thing I wanted to do was to send a message via the Internet to a company involved, even marginally, in the hacking of my Internet site. ‘No,’ I replied, ‘I need to discuss this with a real human being.’ He gave me a five-word answer: ‘I am real human being.’ And then he hung up.

512px-Pardubice_Pernstynske_namesti_jv_strana

Pardubice, a pretty city on the River Elbe, has the dubious distinction of being the place where Semtex plastic explosives are made. Other than that I found little of interest about the town. And even though the hackers had registered their site with Gransy, there was no guarantee that they themselves were from Pardubice or Prague. They could have registered their sites from anywhere, really – Russia, China, wherever.

But I did discover more about Gransy, a company that has been little mentioned in the American press. Last September, a domain marketplace called Afternic, based in Waltham, Massachusetts, announced that Gransy had joined as a premium partner. (In one of the many odd footnotes to this story, Afternic chose to make its announcement on Sept. 11.)

Afternic is part of NameMedia, also based in Waltham, which bills itself as ‘the leading marketplace for premium domain names.’ The company, founded in 2005, boasts that its web sites receive more than 70 million visits a month. Its annual revenues amount to $60 million, according to the company. This is clearly big business, and Gransy is part of it.

I contacted Afternic to try to find out whether they were aware that their associate had registered domains used by cybercriminals, but a spokeswoman was not available for comment.

Meanwhile, all this information wasn’t getting me very far in terms of solving the problem. My blog was still hacked, as readers confirmed each time they received a new email update. In fact, a new problem arose: when readers tried to use the print icon to print my recipes, they informed me, they got a text at the top of the recipe saying: ‘Apply here cash advance 100% secure’, with ‘cash advance’ being an active link.

mvandemar-headshotClearly I needed to find someone with the expertise to get into my site and expel the intruders. I did a little searching on the Internet. This led me to Michael VanDeMar, a web developer in Largo, Florida, who specializes in dehacking web sites.

To make a long story short, Michael VanDeMar solved the problem. To the best of our knowledge, the hackers are no longer present on my site. But where this gets really interesting is in the details.

I knew nothing about how hackers operated before last week when I learned of the bad link in my email update. Now I know that this sort of link is called ‘malware’ and that it can be inserted into the pages of an unsuspecting blogger via a ‘back door,’ through a technique known as ‘cloak hacking.’

Michael VanDeMar sent me a snapshot from Google’s cache of one of my blog pages as it appeared on April 22. He had done a search for ‘payday loans.’ Amid links to recipes for French starters like artichokes with vinaigrette sauce and chicken liver pâté, the hackers had embedded links to one of their loan sites. This is how it looked:

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In the insidious, malevolent and lucrative business of cybercrime, the scheme does have a certain brilliance. The links to the hackers’ loan site are present on every blog page, but they are invisible to normal visitors. As Michael VanDeMar put it, the spam is ‘cloaked.’

Although the site may appear to be fine, he said, ‘if a search engine such as Google or Bing visited your site, the spam was shown to them.’ The simple fact that the link has been spotted drives the intruders’ site up in Google’s rankings, allowing it to appear high in the list when somebody searches for online loans. In other words, it allows the cybercriminals to attract business, and also to obtain personal data from the loan applicants.

I clicked on the Apply page of payday2loans3.com to see what kind of information a loan applicant is asked to provide. The list includes: name, address, date of birth, Social Security number, driver’s license number, name of employer, monthly income, next scheduled pay dates, bank name and account number, and the bank’s routing number. It is all too easy to see how such data could be maliciously used by a cybercriminal interested in identity theft.

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But Michael VanDeMar cautioned that my hackers were not necessarily making money through identity theft.

‘It is possible that they were attempting to steal info, but it is also just as likely that they were attempting to generate money via lead generation on legitimate sites,’ he said.

‘What they would do is sign up as affiliate marketers, and get paid for generating leads to legitimate sites, or redirect the traffic to some other website that is monetized in some way, such as with AdSense or another ad network.

‘In some cases they will also deliver a PC virus payload, which would then attempt to infect the visitor’s computer. That in turn would allow them to add the infected computer into a bot network, which can be used for further hacking, sending spam, DDoS [distributed denial-of-service] attacks on servers, etc.’

I wasn’t sure I fully understood this explanation, for the workings of the cybercriminal mind are a bit beyond my grasp. But I had another question. If the domain registrar wasn’t responsible for hosting the hackers who attacked my blog, who was?

‘In fact, the sites are hosting on web hosts all over the world,’ Michael VanDeMar said. ‘cash2advance3.com is hosted at abuzam.net, which is a Russian web host that allows hackers. blatpaydayloans.com resolves to a host named serverel.net, which has a U.S. owner (probably faked) and appears to have an Amsterdam ip address. Three other domains that were injected – plancashadvance.com, sagacashadvance.com and krotpaydayloans.com – are all being hosted in Scranton, Pennsylvania, by a legitimate hosting company named Network Operations Center Inc.’

But how did the intruders get into my site in the first place? After ruling out various other methods, Michael VanDeMar concluded that my blog had been hacked in a way that occurs when ‘there is an insecurity at the hosting level that allows one infected site on the server to infect other sites on the server.’

In other words, I needed to go back to my host – GoDaddy – to see whether my site had been infected through one of its many servers.

I phoned GoDaddy’s technical support team again but was informed politely but firmly that GoDaddy couldn’t help me get rid of the intruders who attacked my blog.

‘The support for your problem is not part of shared hosting,’ the GoDaddy staffer said. ‘We don’t assist you with hackers.’

Screen shot 2013-06-06 at 08.56.42On its web site, GoDaddy bills itself as ‘the world’s #1 domain registrar.’ I’ve been a satisfied customer for about a year and a half, ever since I set up my first web site, megbortin.com (which also turned out to be infected). I pay GoDaddy a yearly fee to retain my two domain names and to host my web sites, which I set up through WordPress, a free self-hosted blogging tool that is used by millions of bloggers around the world.

When I told the support staffer that we suspected that the attack on my blog could be linked to one of GoDaddy’s servers, he replied that the company had ‘hundreds, maybe thousands, of servers’ and that hacking was ‘not something that is considered to be a basic problem on our servers right now.’

The support staffer said that the hackers may have penetrated my web site due to a security problem with my WordPress account.

Before ending the conversation, I asked the support staffer what would happen if the problem recurred. Could GoDaddy protect me from future attacks, or could my site get hacked again? His reply was hardly reassuring.

‘If the CIA’s web site can get hacked,’ he said, ‘anybody’s web site can get hacked.’

Following this conversation, I contacted GoDaddy’s corporate headquarters in Scottsdale, Arizona, to ask for an official comment on the company’s policy on hacking. They got back to me yesterday, and last night I spoke by phone with Todd Redfoot, GoDaddy’s chief information security officer.

He apologized for what had happened, saying that the support staffer ‘should have escalated your problem to an advanced technical support team. With your permission, that support team would go onto your server and look for anything malicious.’

And what was GoDaddy’s policy on hacking?

‘If it’s a server issue, then we’ll address the server issue,’ Todd Redfoot said. ‘If it’s a content issue, we would assist the customer in fixing the issue themselves and securing the account.’

He then offered to look into the specifics of the attack on The Everyday French Chef. This morning I received his preliminary report:

‘Our logs show that your account (everydayfrenchchef.com) was actually altered on March 6. An attacker, coming from Canada, logged into your WordPress admin page at 0835 AM (GMT) with valid credentials.  They then used the theme-editor to modify your 404.php file to allow them to upload additional files. These additional files allowed them to come back later, without a log in (in case you noticed and changed your password), to make additional changes to your website. These files are called ‘Backdoor Shells’, and are used to maintain control of websites after the initial compromise:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backdoor_Shell.

‘Then, on March 27, at 0635 AM (GMT), the attacker came back, this time from a Germany computer. The attacker then added the ‘Pay Day Loans’ text to various pages – the text that you ultimately discovered.  They did this by posting a command to the files (backdoor shells) that they uploaded earlier in the month.’

This intriguing explanation indicates that an international gang of hackers got into my site by somehow obtaining my WordPress password. How they may have done that is still not clear to me.

Michael VanDeMar, who has spent years studying hacking issues, suggested that firms like GoDaddy might have business reasons for preferring to hand off responsibility for problems like the one I experienced. (He made this comment after I unsuccessfully tried to get help from GoDaddy’s support team, and before I received Todd Redfoot’s report.)

‘If they admit that there’s a problem on their server, that could open a class-action lawsuit,’ he said. ‘It’s a financial issue.’

While trying to fix my problem, he tracked down the address of my GoDaddy server. Using the Bing search engine, he found that numerous other sites on the same server had been affected by payday loan hackers, among them the sites of a Cape Cod poultry farm, an artist in Portland, Oregon, and a real estate broker in Montreal.

So this is where we stand. Bloggers as unlikely as artists, farmers and writers have become the victims of cybercriminals who are promoting loan schemes in a fraudulent way.

Is there any way to pursue these Internet fraudsters? This is a question I put to Lou Tekavcic of the Cleveland Better Business Bureau.

‘It’s an uphill battle,’ he said. ‘These sites collect confidential information from consumers who unwittingly expose themselves to identity theft and, regrettably, law enforcement faces an ongoing battle trying to shut them down.’

Screen shot 2013-06-05 at 15.52.15Lou Tekavcic provided me with links to IC3, a partnership between the FBI and the National White Collar Crime Center that aims to combat Internet crime. I took a look at these links, which confirmed that Internet fraud is a major, and growing, phenomenon.

In its latest annual report, released in mid-May, IC3 says it received more than 280,000 reports of online criminal activity in 2012. Total reported losses via cybercrime amounted to more than $525 million, an increase of 8 percent over the previous year. And that’s just the reported losses.

Even though I have not suffered financial consequences from the hacking of my blog beyond the fee I paid Michael VanDeMar, I plan to file a complaint with IC3. To put it plainly, I am incensed at the idea that criminals are using my creative work to defraud other people.

I would love my complaint to lead to a worldwide Interpol search to hunt down these cybercriminals. But I doubt that will happen anytime soon. And I fully expect my blog to be hacked again – if not this year, then sooner or later.

That won’t stop me from sending my recipes into cyberspace. I love French cuisine, enjoy writing about it, and won’t be deterred by a band of Internet thieves.

Besides, if it happens again, I know there’s someone looking out for me in California. That person, as he put it himself when he first mentioned the problem, ‘being your brother who’s got your back and everything.’

logoIf you found this article interesting, please share it with others who may have experienced similar problems, or who may want to know more about Internet hacking. There is a space for comments below.

— Meg Bortin

 

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Pistou

pistou 3This is a recipe for French basil sauce, and it is also a final test to make sure everything is running smoothly on this site following my misadventure with hackers. The story of how and why they got into The Everyday French Chef grows more interesting by the day, and I promise that my next post will provide the details. I’m still waiting for a few bits of information. Many thanks to all the readers who have signaled glitches over the last week. A wonderful web doctor in Florida has cleaned up the site, and hopefully it’s working fine now. The whodunnit post will most likely go up tomorrow. In the meantime, here’s…

Pistou / French basil sauce

This sauce hails from Provence and is closely akin to pesto, the Italian version from the Liguria region just over the French-Italian border. The difference is that the French omit the pine nuts and, usually, the cheese. A version this herbal sauce with garlic has been around since Roman times: Virgil mentioned it in his Eclogues, although the Romans probably used parsley rather than basil. In France, this aromatic sauce is most frequently used in Soupe au pistou, a summer soup with chopped vegetables and dried beans that is not very different from minestrone. But its fabulous pungency can add pizzazz to many dishes. A spoonful drizzled over pasta, fish, chicken, veggies or salads transforms a dish from ordinary to exceptional. Pistou is traditionally made by pounding the basil and garlic together with a mortar and pestle, but these days it is most easily made in a blender. The recipe is simplicity itself. Preparation takes less than 5 minutes. Happy cooking!

 

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