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Poireaux au gratin
Leek gratin is traditionally made with Reblochon, a pungent cheese from the French Alps, but it has been snowing in Paris. The snow brought the city to a standstill, and by the time it stopped the stores were empty. No … Continue reading
Risotto de langouste
The lobster known as le homard — the one with alarming claws — is hugely expensive in Paris, and so is its kinder, gentler cousin, la langouste (no pinchers). But this winter frozen langouste tails began appearing at a reasonable … Continue reading
Velouté de butternut
Butternut soup is suddenly the rage in Paris. Walk down any street and you will see it listed on menu-of-the-day chalkboards outside bistros. This is all the more surprising given that butternut squash was virtually unknown in France until a … Continue reading
Parmentier de canard
Here’s a cold-weather dish that is both sophisticated and supremely French. Duck parmentier — shredded duck confit topped by puréed potatoes — has turned up on Paris bistro menus recently and I was lucky enough to be served this version … Continue reading
Posted in 6. Poultry
Tagged confit de canard, duck, parmentier, recette, recipe, restaurant chartier
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Plateau de fruits de mer
Sharing a shellfish platter in fond company is one of the great pleasures of life in France, particularly if you happen to be enjoying it by the sea. Add a bottle of crisp white and the sound of waves breaking … Continue reading
Posted in 5. Fish and Shellfish
Tagged bigorneaux, bulots, gambas, holiday meals, oysters, recette, recipe, shellfish, whelks, winkles
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Boulgour aux oignons rouges
A guest was coming to dinner, a friend from the literary world. I didn’t want to have to spend a lot of time in the kitchen while he was here, yet wanted to produce a satisfying, palate-pleasing meal. What to … Continue reading
Posted in 9. Pasta, Rice, Grains
Tagged boulgour, bulghur, patates douces, recette, recipe, sweet potatoes, thanksgiving
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Quiche lorraine
You can find quiche lorraine in virtually any bakery or deli in France, but it is even better when made at home. The rich filling of eggs, milk cream, bacon and cheese fluffs up in the oven to marry delightfully … Continue reading
Poissons fumés en salade
A salad of smoked fish makes a delightful lunch as the days grow cooler. In the salad pictured here, I used smoked mackerel, which is sold in France covered in crushed black pepper. Its tawny hues contrast nicely with the … Continue reading
Posted in 3. Salads
Tagged herring, mackerel, recette, recipe, salad, smoked salmon, smoked trout
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Purée de fenouil
When the days draw shorter, a warming dish like finocchio purée provides comfort. Yet it is not one of your heavy comfort foods. Light, with a delicate flavor, this purée marries well with all sorts of autumn dishes — meat, … Continue reading
