Salade mesclun à l’huile de noix

mesclun 6I first encountered mesclun at a charming inn near Saint-Paul-de-Vence, in one of the most breathtaking corners of Provence. We lunched at a sun-splashed table, caressed by the aromas wafting over from fields of lavender and wild thyme. Was that was made it so fabulous? When they brought out this simple salad, nothing could have tasted fresher, lighter, closer to the earth. For mesclun — which means ‘mixture’ in Provençal — is composed of new leaves, at least seven varieties, of the herbs and lettuce that grow naturally in the region.

Salade mesclun à l’huile de noix / Salad of mixed greens from Provence

Traditionally, mesclun is served with a dressing of extra-virgin olive oil with lemon and, sometimes, mustard. In this version, the olive oil is blended with walnut oil and balsamic vinegar to produce a deeply satisfying taste. Mesclun may be served as a first course — possibly with something beside it, like cured country ham or goat cheese bathed in olive oil and fresh thyme — or as a side dish, or after the meal and before the dessert. It deserves the freshest of bread alongside. Guaranteed to please.

Site news: Many thanks to all of you who have borne with me while I dealt with the hacking of this web site. As of today, I can report that the hackers have been expelled and the site is back to normal, with recipes appearing every Tuesday and Friday. It was a major hassle to get rid of the intruders, but I learned a lot. And now that it’s over, what can I say? Very, very relieved to be back to my usual role — of happily cooking.

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Uncloaked: How hackers attacked The Everyday French Chef

The Everyday French Chef is a cooking blog, but as it happens this particular food blogger is also a journalist with a background in investigative reporting. What follows is my report on how cybercriminals penetrated this web site with links offering ‘payday loans’ at high interest rates – a scheme that could also aim to lure the unwary into revealing personal information to internet fraudsters involved in the multimillion dollar business of identity theft. I followed them along an international trail that led from Czech Republic to Russia, Canada, Germany and the United States. The technique they used is called ‘cloak hacking.’

Meg BortinFirst, let me introduce myself. I’m Meg Bortin, an American journalist, writer and food blogger based in Paris. Last autumn I launched The Everyday French Chef, where I post recipes twice a week. The site is totally nonprofit. My sole aim has been to attract a sufficient following to be able to publish a cookbook. While the site has proved successful, it hasn’t gone viral in the way I hoped it might. With fewer than 300 followers, I never imagined that cybercriminals would taken an interest in me.

I was alerted to the fact that there was a problem just over a week ago, when my brother in California forwarded the email update he had received from my site that morning. To my surprise, above my link to a recipe for fresh sorrel soup was another link, not inserted by me, saying ‘INSTANT payday loans online.’ I clicked on the link and found myself on a site called blatpaydayloans.com soliciting readers to apply for quick cash advances. I thanked my brother and got in touch with a French web designer who helps me with technical aspects of the site.

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At first we thought the problem was emanating from Feedburner, a Google service that sends out email updates each time I put up a new blog post. My French consultant suggested that I change my Feedburner password, which I did, before putting up a new post. Unfortunately, the email update for this post, too, was penetrated by an intruder. Inserted above the link to my recipe for rhubarb-strawberry soup, it said ‘additional info.’ I clicked on the link and found myself on payday2loans3.com, another cash-advance site.

A payday loan, I was to learn, is a short-term loan meant to be repaid by the borrower’s next payday. Interest rates are astronomical. For example, a borrower might be charged $15 in interest on a 2-week loan of $100. That works out to an interest rate of 390 percent a year. But at a time when many people are suffering from the economic downturn, it’s not hard to imagine that, as the bills pile up, they may be taken in by offers of quick cash.

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By late last week, with my French consultant on a train to Alsace for a wedding, I decided to seek assistance elsewhere. My first port of call was the technical support team at GoDaddy, the Internet company that hosts my web site. I explained the problem, but was told that while GoDaddy maintained security on its side, it was not responsible for security on the user side – i.e. people with the web sites it hosts.

Not to be stymied, I decided to try to find out more about the hackers. I went back to the ‘INSTANT payday loans online’ site and clicked on their Contacts page. What came up was an address in Austinburg, Ohio, and a phone number.

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I dialed the number but a recorded message said that the phone had been disconnected. Then I tried to locate the address via Google Maps. It did not appear to exist.

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At this point, getting angrier by the minute about having become the target of hackers, I decided to get in touch with the Better Business Bureau for the Austinburg district. It turned out to be in Cleveland. I was put in touch with Lou Tekavcic, a trade specialist at the bureau, who confirmed that the Austinburg address did not exist and very helpfully supplied me with information from WHOIS, a registry of information about web users worldwide.

WHOIS identified both payday loan sites as having been recently created – the ‘blatpaydayloans’ site on April 22 and the ‘payday2loan3’ site on May 28, just three days before it was surreptitiously inserted into my blog. (I later learned that other payday loan sites had been inserted as early as March). WHOIS also identified both sites as being registered with the same domain manager, a company called Gransy located in Pardubice, a small city in Czech Republic about 60 miles east of Prague.

This does not mean that Gransy was responsible for the hacking. The domains are registered through the Czech company, but Gransy has nothing to do with how people use the web sites registered there. Still, it was the first link in a chain.

I looked Gransy up on Google to try to get more information about the company, and discovered that it manages hundreds of thousands of Internet domains, along with a sister company called Regtons. Determined to get to the bottom of this, I went to the Contact page on the Regtons site and found a Prague phone number, which I promptly called. I wanted to know whether Gransy/Regtons was aware that domains it had registered were being used by hackers. The man who answered spoke enough English for us to understand each other. He said that all queries had to be emailed.

The last thing I wanted to do was to send a message via the Internet to a company involved, even marginally, in the hacking of my Internet site. ‘No,’ I replied, ‘I need to discuss this with a real human being.’ He gave me a five-word answer: ‘I am real human being.’ And then he hung up.

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Pardubice, a pretty city on the River Elbe, has the dubious distinction of being the place where Semtex plastic explosives are made. Other than that I found little of interest about the town. And even though the hackers had registered their site with Gransy, there was no guarantee that they themselves were from Pardubice or Prague. They could have registered their sites from anywhere, really – Russia, China, wherever.

But I did discover more about Gransy, a company that has been little mentioned in the American press. Last September, a domain marketplace called Afternic, based in Waltham, Massachusetts, announced that Gransy had joined as a premium partner. (In one of the many odd footnotes to this story, Afternic chose to make its announcement on Sept. 11.)

Afternic is part of NameMedia, also based in Waltham, which bills itself as ‘the leading marketplace for premium domain names.’ The company, founded in 2005, boasts that its web sites receive more than 70 million visits a month. Its annual revenues amount to $60 million, according to the company. This is clearly big business, and Gransy is part of it.

I contacted Afternic to try to find out whether they were aware that their associate had registered domains used by cybercriminals, but a spokeswoman was not available for comment.

Meanwhile, all this information wasn’t getting me very far in terms of solving the problem. My blog was still hacked, as readers confirmed each time they received a new email update. In fact, a new problem arose: when readers tried to use the print icon to print my recipes, they informed me, they got a text at the top of the recipe saying: ‘Apply here cash advance 100% secure’, with ‘cash advance’ being an active link.

mvandemar-headshotClearly I needed to find someone with the expertise to get into my site and expel the intruders. I did a little searching on the Internet. This led me to Michael VanDeMar, a web developer in Largo, Florida, who specializes in dehacking web sites.

To make a long story short, Michael VanDeMar solved the problem. To the best of our knowledge, the hackers are no longer present on my site. But where this gets really interesting is in the details.

I knew nothing about how hackers operated before last week when I learned of the bad link in my email update. Now I know that this sort of link is called ‘malware’ and that it can be inserted into the pages of an unsuspecting blogger via a ‘back door,’ through a technique known as ‘cloak hacking.’

Michael VanDeMar sent me a snapshot from Google’s cache of one of my blog pages as it appeared on April 22. He had done a search for ‘payday loans.’ Amid links to recipes for French starters like artichokes with vinaigrette sauce and chicken liver pâté, the hackers had embedded links to one of their loan sites. This is how it looked:

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In the insidious, malevolent and lucrative business of cybercrime, the scheme does have a certain brilliance. The links to the hackers’ loan site are present on every blog page, but they are invisible to normal visitors. As Michael VanDeMar put it, the spam is ‘cloaked.’

Although the site may appear to be fine, he said, ‘if a search engine such as Google or Bing visited your site, the spam was shown to them.’ The simple fact that the link has been spotted drives the intruders’ site up in Google’s rankings, allowing it to appear high in the list when somebody searches for online loans. In other words, it allows the cybercriminals to attract business, and also to obtain personal data from the loan applicants.

I clicked on the Apply page of payday2loans3.com to see what kind of information a loan applicant is asked to provide. The list includes: name, address, date of birth, Social Security number, driver’s license number, name of employer, monthly income, next scheduled pay dates, bank name and account number, and the bank’s routing number. It is all too easy to see how such data could be maliciously used by a cybercriminal interested in identity theft.

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But Michael VanDeMar cautioned that my hackers were not necessarily making money through identity theft.

‘It is possible that they were attempting to steal info, but it is also just as likely that they were attempting to generate money via lead generation on legitimate sites,’ he said.

‘What they would do is sign up as affiliate marketers, and get paid for generating leads to legitimate sites, or redirect the traffic to some other website that is monetized in some way, such as with AdSense or another ad network.

‘In some cases they will also deliver a PC virus payload, which would then attempt to infect the visitor’s computer. That in turn would allow them to add the infected computer into a bot network, which can be used for further hacking, sending spam, DDoS [distributed denial-of-service] attacks on servers, etc.’

I wasn’t sure I fully understood this explanation, for the workings of the cybercriminal mind are a bit beyond my grasp. But I had another question. If the domain registrar wasn’t responsible for hosting the hackers who attacked my blog, who was?

‘In fact, the sites are hosting on web hosts all over the world,’ Michael VanDeMar said. ‘cash2advance3.com is hosted at abuzam.net, which is a Russian web host that allows hackers. blatpaydayloans.com resolves to a host named serverel.net, which has a U.S. owner (probably faked) and appears to have an Amsterdam ip address. Three other domains that were injected – plancashadvance.com, sagacashadvance.com and krotpaydayloans.com – are all being hosted in Scranton, Pennsylvania, by a legitimate hosting company named Network Operations Center Inc.’

But how did the intruders get into my site in the first place? After ruling out various other methods, Michael VanDeMar concluded that my blog had been hacked in a way that occurs when ‘there is an insecurity at the hosting level that allows one infected site on the server to infect other sites on the server.’

In other words, I needed to go back to my host – GoDaddy – to see whether my site had been infected through one of its many servers.

I phoned GoDaddy’s technical support team again but was informed politely but firmly that GoDaddy couldn’t help me get rid of the intruders who attacked my blog.

‘The support for your problem is not part of shared hosting,’ the GoDaddy staffer said. ‘We don’t assist you with hackers.’

Screen shot 2013-06-06 at 08.56.42On its web site, GoDaddy bills itself as ‘the world’s #1 domain registrar.’ I’ve been a satisfied customer for about a year and a half, ever since I set up my first web site, megbortin.com (which also turned out to be infected). I pay GoDaddy a yearly fee to retain my two domain names and to host my web sites, which I set up through WordPress, a free self-hosted blogging tool that is used by millions of bloggers around the world.

When I told the support staffer that we suspected that the attack on my blog could be linked to one of GoDaddy’s servers, he replied that the company had ‘hundreds, maybe thousands, of servers’ and that hacking was ‘not something that is considered to be a basic problem on our servers right now.’

The support staffer said that the hackers may have penetrated my web site due to a security problem with my WordPress account.

Before ending the conversation, I asked the support staffer what would happen if the problem recurred. Could GoDaddy protect me from future attacks, or could my site get hacked again? His reply was hardly reassuring.

‘If the CIA’s web site can get hacked,’ he said, ‘anybody’s web site can get hacked.’

Following this conversation, I contacted GoDaddy’s corporate headquarters in Scottsdale, Arizona, to ask for an official comment on the company’s policy on hacking. They got back to me yesterday, and last night I spoke by phone with Todd Redfoot, GoDaddy’s chief information security officer.

He apologized for what had happened, saying that the support staffer ‘should have escalated your problem to an advanced technical support team. With your permission, that support team would go onto your server and look for anything malicious.’

And what was GoDaddy’s policy on hacking?

‘If it’s a server issue, then we’ll address the server issue,’ Todd Redfoot said. ‘If it’s a content issue, we would assist the customer in fixing the issue themselves and securing the account.’

He then offered to look into the specifics of the attack on The Everyday French Chef. This morning I received his preliminary report:

‘Our logs show that your account (everydayfrenchchef.com) was actually altered on March 6. An attacker, coming from Canada, logged into your WordPress admin page at 0835 AM (GMT) with valid credentials.  They then used the theme-editor to modify your 404.php file to allow them to upload additional files. These additional files allowed them to come back later, without a log in (in case you noticed and changed your password), to make additional changes to your website. These files are called ‘Backdoor Shells’, and are used to maintain control of websites after the initial compromise:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backdoor_Shell.

‘Then, on March 27, at 0635 AM (GMT), the attacker came back, this time from a Germany computer. The attacker then added the ‘Pay Day Loans’ text to various pages – the text that you ultimately discovered.  They did this by posting a command to the files (backdoor shells) that they uploaded earlier in the month.’

This intriguing explanation indicates that an international gang of hackers got into my site by somehow obtaining my WordPress password. How they may have done that is still not clear to me.

Michael VanDeMar, who has spent years studying hacking issues, suggested that firms like GoDaddy might have business reasons for preferring to hand off responsibility for problems like the one I experienced. (He made this comment after I unsuccessfully tried to get help from GoDaddy’s support team, and before I received Todd Redfoot’s report.)

‘If they admit that there’s a problem on their server, that could open a class-action lawsuit,’ he said. ‘It’s a financial issue.’

While trying to fix my problem, he tracked down the address of my GoDaddy server. Using the Bing search engine, he found that numerous other sites on the same server had been affected by payday loan hackers, among them the sites of a Cape Cod poultry farm, an artist in Portland, Oregon, and a real estate broker in Montreal.

So this is where we stand. Bloggers as unlikely as artists, farmers and writers have become the victims of cybercriminals who are promoting loan schemes in a fraudulent way.

Is there any way to pursue these Internet fraudsters? This is a question I put to Lou Tekavcic of the Cleveland Better Business Bureau.

‘It’s an uphill battle,’ he said. ‘These sites collect confidential information from consumers who unwittingly expose themselves to identity theft and, regrettably, law enforcement faces an ongoing battle trying to shut them down.’

Screen shot 2013-06-05 at 15.52.15Lou Tekavcic provided me with links to IC3, a partnership between the FBI and the National White Collar Crime Center that aims to combat Internet crime. I took a look at these links, which confirmed that Internet fraud is a major, and growing, phenomenon.

In its latest annual report, released in mid-May, IC3 says it received more than 280,000 reports of online criminal activity in 2012. Total reported losses via cybercrime amounted to more than $525 million, an increase of 8 percent over the previous year. And that’s just the reported losses.

Even though I have not suffered financial consequences from the hacking of my blog beyond the fee I paid Michael VanDeMar, I plan to file a complaint with IC3. To put it plainly, I am incensed at the idea that criminals are using my creative work to defraud other people.

I would love my complaint to lead to a worldwide Interpol search to hunt down these cybercriminals. But I doubt that will happen anytime soon. And I fully expect my blog to be hacked again – if not this year, then sooner or later.

That won’t stop me from sending my recipes into cyberspace. I love French cuisine, enjoy writing about it, and won’t be deterred by a band of Internet thieves.

Besides, if it happens again, I know there’s someone looking out for me in California. That person, as he put it himself when he first mentioned the problem, ‘being your brother who’s got your back and everything.’

logoIf you found this article interesting, please share it with others who may have experienced similar problems, or who may want to know more about Internet hacking. There is a space for comments below.

— Meg Bortin

 

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Pistou

pistou 3This is a recipe for French basil sauce, and it is also a final test to make sure everything is running smoothly on this site following my misadventure with hackers. The story of how and why they got into The Everyday French Chef grows more interesting by the day, and I promise that my next post will provide the details. I’m still waiting for a few bits of information. Many thanks to all the readers who have signaled glitches over the last week. A wonderful web doctor in Florida has cleaned up the site, and hopefully it’s working fine now. The whodunnit post will most likely go up tomorrow. In the meantime, here’s…

Pistou / French basil sauce

This sauce hails from Provence and is closely akin to pesto, the Italian version from the Liguria region just over the French-Italian border. The difference is that the French omit the pine nuts and, usually, the cheese. A version this herbal sauce with garlic has been around since Roman times: Virgil mentioned it in his Eclogues, although the Romans probably used parsley rather than basil. In France, this aromatic sauce is most frequently used in Soupe au pistou, a summer soup with chopped vegetables and dried beans that is not very different from minestrone. But its fabulous pungency can add pizzazz to many dishes. A spoonful drizzled over pasta, fish, chicken, veggies or salads transforms a dish from ordinary to exceptional. Pistou is traditionally made by pounding the basil and garlic together with a mortar and pestle, but these days it is most easily made in a blender. The recipe is simplicity itself. Preparation takes less than 5 minutes. Happy cooking!

 

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Pâte sablée

tarte pommes1This is a recipe for French pastry, but it is also a test. I think we’ve made progress against the East European hackers who got into this site, but I need to test it out with a post. Which is why you are receiving a second extra recipe this weekend (no extra charge!). Once the problem is confirmed to be solved, I’ll send you a full account of this somewhat frightening modern story, which has galloped from Paris to Cleveland to Scottsdale, Arizona, to a small town in Czech Republic and finally Florida. In the meantime, if you see any links below that do not say Pâte sablée, don’t click on them. I didn’t put them there. And now, here’s…

Pâte sablée / French tart dough

This is the basic French dough for making sweet tarts. Far easier to prepare than puffy pâte feuilletée, this cookie crust may be made in about 5 minutes and patted into a tart pan as shown above. It needs no pre-cooking for most fruit tarts. For example, with apples as in the photo, just slice the fruit, arrange it in the shell, sprinkle with sugar, dot with butter, and bake. It produces a tender, slightly crumbly crust with a flavor that, as my cooking student Louise would say, is just divine. Try it and see.

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Couscous

couscous 2This is a recipe for couscous, but it is also a test. Some people in Czech Republic have managed to hack into the email updates that go out to subscribers with each of my posts. They have now twice inserted links in these emails to online ‘loan’ sites where they clearly hope to take advantage of the unwary. I have done something to try to make it impossible for them to do it again, and need to test it by putting a new post up on my site. If you receive this in an email update and there’s link that doesn’t say Couscous, don’t click on it. I didn’t put it there. I am pursuing my research into this situation — it’s interesting — and will provide a full account within the next couple of days. In the meantime, here’s…

Couscous

Originally from North Africa, this light, fluffy grain has become a highly popular dish in France when accompanied by grilled meat and a spicy vegetable stew.  The recipe provided here is for the grain, which is made of durum wheat, like the best spaghetti. It is quite simple to prepare and makes a lovely side dish — or, in my daughter’s opinion, a delicious breakfast when sprinkled with sugar, cinnamon and a dash of milk. When the French say they like couscous, however, they mean the full dish — zucchini, carrots, turnips, celery and chick peas in a spicy, tomato-flavored soup, as well as chicken, lamb, beef, merguez or, occasionally, fish. Just how much they like it was revealed in a 2011 survey in which couscous came third among favorite foods of the French! It was outranked only by magret de canard (duck filet) and moules-frites (mussels with French fries). Couscous has been part of the French culinary repertoire since at least the 17th century, when it crossed the Mediterranean to Toulon. For centuries it was prepared from millet, and still is in sub-Saharan Africa, where it is pounded by women using huge wooden bowls and thick wooden rods. I saw this when I visited Mali a while back. In fact, paleoethnobotanists — people who study plants cultivated by prehistoric humans — believe that millet could be one of the first widely farmed foods. Which means that when you make a plate of couscous, you are linking up culinarily with some of our earliest ancestors. I just love this idea. Happy cooking!

The survey of 999 people was carried out by TNS-Sofres, a highly regarded French polling agency, for the magazine Vie Pratique Gourmand.

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Soupe de rhubarbe aux fraises

rhubarb soup 1Full disclosure: I first tasted this fresh spring dessert at the home of a French ambassador. His chef whipped it up one morning while we were visiting. When I brought the spoon to my lips, there was a surprising burst of flavor — rhubarb and strawberries, yes, but I sensed there was a secret ingredient. We were leaving for the airport, so I didn’t have time to ask him for the recipe. ‘I’m going to try to make this back in Paris,’ I smiled, as he joined our hostess and the rest of the staff to see us off. Did I detect a smirk of disbelief? Well, Monsieur le Chef, here’s my version, and if it’s not identical to yours it’s just as tasty. By the way, my secret ingredient is ground coriander seeds…

Soupe de rhubarbe aux fraises / Rhubarb soup with strawberries and mint

Now then. For those of you who have subscribed to this blog by email — for which thank you very much — I’d like to alert you to a little problem. Gremlins seem to have penetrated the last email message, placing a link inside that says ‘Instant Payday Loans Online.’ Obviously it shouldn’t be there, and I strongly advise you not to click on it if it reappears. I am trying to get this problem resolved, and hope you will not be bothered by it in the future. In the meantime, it’s still raining in Paris. What is to be done? Make this dessert and dream of summer. Maybe one of these days…

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Soupe à l’oseille

sorrel soup2I’ve always loved sorrel, ever since first encountering it in France as a young woman. It’s fresh and lemony, a herald of spring, somewhere between an herb and a vegetable — the kind of plant women used to gather from the woods and turn into a lovely dish. Fresh sorrel is delicious in an omelet, makes a great sauce for fish and finds its supreme expression, perhaps, in a simple soup like this one, with a touch of cream to soften the sour edges.

Soupe à l’oseille / Fresh sorrel soup

Another reason why I love sorrel, or oseille as it’s known in French, is because I’m a bit of a linguist as well as a cook. As I discovered when I went to the movies one evening shortly after arriving in France in the ’70s, oseille means not just ‘sorrel’ but also ‘money’ in popular parlance. The name of the film? It was Woody Allen’s Take the Money and Run — or, in French, Prends l’oseille et tire-toi. Of course, French argot being a very rich language in its own right, sorrel is by far not the only food that connotes cash. Others include blé (wheat), beurre (butter), and radis (radish, used mainly when you’re out of dough, as in, Je n’ai plus un radis.) And speaking of dough, English, too, has its stock of food terms that connote money: bread, cabbage, clams, lettuce, to name just a few. If you have more examples, including from other languages, please send them along.

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Dorade au four au pistou

dorade basilic2The first question: What exactly is this fish? Dorade, sometimes written daurade in French, has many appelations in English, among them porgy and bream. From a cook’s point of view, it doesn’t much matter – as this recipe works well with any medium-sized white-flesh saltwater fish. Red snapper, pampano or sea bass would make great substitutes, for example. The fish is lightly coated with olive oil, stuffed with fresh basil and baked in a very hot oven to obtain a tandoori effect — crispy on the outside and tender within.

Dorade au four au pistou / Baked porgy with French basil sauce

dorade2Getting back to the appelation, there are several versions of the fish the French call dorade, one of the most prized being the dorade royale (at right). And as it turns out, this is the only dorade that may also be written daurade — a nuance that had escaped my notice during all my years in France. A fish fit for a king or queen, it is called gilt-head bream by the English. Its relatives include yellowfin and scup. My best culinary experience of dorade took place in Senegal, along an area the West African coast where the fish are plentiful. There, they serve it braisé — which surprisingly does not mean braised but rather grilled over charcoal — accompanied by an unbelievably fiery and delicious hot pepper sauce. Although I’ve searched for this sauce in Paris for years, I’ve never been able to find it. Never mind. Dorade au pistou, while quite different, is almost as good.

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Risotto aux asperges et petits pois

risotto asperges1Yes, it’s spring. Don’t let anyone try to tell you otherwise, even if you happen to live in a part of the world where it’s been raining nonstop since October. Like Paris, and in fact quite a large swath of France. My garden in Burgundy is suffering as much as I am. The beans won’t come up, the shallots and potatoes are waterlogged and it’s been too cold to put in the tomatoes or zucchini. The only plants withstanding this endless winter are the peas. If the sun could come out for five minutes a day, maybe I’d be able to make this dish with homegrown food by around July. Never mind that it’s a dish for spring…

Risotto aux asperges et petits pois / Risotto with asparagus and fresh peas

Thumbing my nose at the weather, I made this risotto the other evening to the great delight of a friend who came to dine. It may be served as a starter, a side dish or the main attraction of a light meal, accompanied by salad and a chilled rosé. It is creamy and rich, with a touch of parmesan to meld the flavors of peas, asparagus, onion, parsley, broth, the rice and a little white wine. I improvised a bit, adding peas to an asparagus risotto recipe I like. The resulting concoction bore more than a slight resemblance to a dish from the Venice region, risi e bisi, which is a slightly soupy version of risotto served in spring. So don’t be put off by the rain. Just take an umbrella, head for the kitchen and start cooking. It’s the best therapy I know for finding pleasure in a dreary day.

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Salade verte à la française

salade verte3I’ve been wanting to post this recipe for ages but put it off, daunted by what I expect could be the reaction of many. What’s so special about green salad, I hear you saying. Ah yes, mes amis, but this is not just any green salad. This is the quintessential French salad that used to be available in any bistro, on any family table. That was before the advent of the dreaded sauce blanche, the bottled dressing used by so many French cafés and restaurants these days. No, a classic French green salad is made with mustard vinaigrette over lettuce — with perhaps a little shallot, garlic or parsley — and that’s it.

Salade verte à la française / Green salad, French style

It’s so easy, and so quick, that I wanted to include it, all the more so because it is served so often during French meals, usually after the main course and before or with the cheese. The vinaigrette can be made in two minutes. If you haven’t yet explored the videos on this site, now’s your chance — click on How To, either here or on the black bar above, and then click on Mustard Vinaigrette, where you’ll see me demonstrating how to make this most classic of French dressings. Meantime, if you’re looking to do some cooking over the weekend, check out the Menus section, which has just been updated with separate new pages for vegans, vegetarians and omnivores and the latest spring recipes from the blog.

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