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Author Archives: Meg
Risotto à la trévise
When I first tasted risotto al radicchio I was dining alone in Venice and chose it almost at random from a menu with many other dishes that were unknown to me. Bitter red salad with rice? Why not, I thought, … Continue reading
Courge butternut rôtie aux pignons
Butternut squash is a relative newcomer to Paris. When I moved here in the 1970s I encountered it rarely, if ever. But now it has acquired star power at some of the finest tables in town. I tasted it most … Continue reading
Truffes au chocolat
Why are these sinfully elegant and delightful chocolates called truffles? They take their name from the just as sinfully elegant black truffle, which grows under oak trees, must be uncovered by pigs or dogs and has at various moments cost … Continue reading
Saumon mariné à la russe
With the end-of-year holidays approaching, this Russian-French version of gravalax makes a fine festive dish. The salmon is marinated overnight in salt and sugar — et voilà, it’s ready. Although I enjoyed this dish many times while working in Russia, … Continue reading
Posted in 1. Starters, 5. Fish and Shellfish
Tagged gravalax, marinated salmon, recette, recipe, saumon mariné
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Coq au vin
The rooster is the French national bird, an unofficial symbol of Gallic pride, virility and, well, cockiness. Does this make coq au vin the French national dish? Not necessarily, although it’s certainly a contender. Coq au vin is most often … Continue reading
Tarte à l’oignon rouge
One of the things I find most amazing about cooking is the way the simplest of ingredients can be turned into a dish that is, frankly, sublime. Red onion tart is such a dish. The onions are gently sautéed with … Continue reading
Posted in 4. Omelets, Soufflés, Quiche
Tagged French onion tart, recipe, red onion, tarte a l'oignon
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Saumon vapeur au chou
Today begins my ode to the steamer, the most useful article in my kitchen. I use it constantly for fish and vegetables of all kinds. The steamer cooks quickly and cleanly. Flavors remain intense, and none of the vitamins are … Continue reading
Posted in 5. Fish and Shellfish
Tagged cabbage, chou, recipe, salmon, saumon, steamed, vapeur
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Kouglof
We’re nearly into the holiday season and to mark the occasion here is a cake from Alsace, kouglof, which according to one legend is shaped like a turban of the Magi. Not to imply, however, that this is a Christmas … Continue reading
Tagine de poulet aux pruneaux et aux amandes
The tagine is a Moroccan stew typically made with chicken or lamb cooked with dried fruit and nuts, or with olives, preserved lemon or really any vegetable combination — eggplant, carrots, tomatoes, potatoes. I think I can safely say that … Continue reading
Salade de carottes à la marocaine
Does North African cooking count as French cuisine? I had dinner a couple nights ago with friends who insist that it does. ‘After all,’ said Jack, ‘when the French are asked to name their favorite food, the dish that comes … Continue reading
Posted in 1. Starters, 3. Salads, 8. Vegetables
Tagged carrots, moroccan, recipe, salad, spicy, vegan
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