Gigot d’agneau à la marocaine

gigot3Just in time for Easter, here’s a recipe with a twist — a leg of lamb coated in spices that infuse the meat with a seductive Moroccan flavor. Add a little couscous on the side, and you will have an exotic Easter meal as memorable as the painted eggs left around your house or garden by a certain rabbit. And once the Easter holiday has passed, you can make this recipe time and again, for it’s a crowd pleaser and quite easy to prepare.

Gigot d’agneau à la marocaine / Roast leg of lamb, Moroccan style

The French tend to serve their lamb rare and the Moroccans well done, so how to approach this roast? My rule of thumb (with a caveat) is to forget about how other cultures prepare their meat and serve the roast as you — and your family and guests — like it. The caveat is that I’ve lived in France so long I’ve been influenced by the local style, and have come to believe that the meat becomes tougher and arguably less flavorful the longer you cook it. In my kitchen, I roast the lamb just long enough for the meat in the broader parts of the leg to be medium-rare — pink with perhaps a tiny spot of red in the middle. The meat toward the bottom of the leg will be more well done, allowing a choice for the diners around the table. Happy cooking!

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Asperges braisées

asperges braisees3I think there’s something we can all agree on — the first taste of asparagus each year is one of the rites of spring. Not that spring has sprung in Paris quite yet, but the first green spears have just made their debut in the outdoor markets. I’d been waiting for that moment and seized on it last week while shopping for a dinner party. There, gloriously displayed, was a large heap of young asparagus. I bought it, brought it home and braised it.

Asperges braisées / Braised asparagus

Braising transforms asparagus into almost a different vegetable. Not that I don’t like the more delicate steamed variety with hollandaise or simply with olive oil and sea salt. I’m sure we’ll get around to that later this spring. But braised asparagus acquires a richly smoky flavor as it browns, a lusty, earthy taste. I usually serve it as a starter, but it also brings star power as a side dish to whatever you may be serving. At the dinner party, I served the asparagus alongside roast guinea fowl. There were no complaints.

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Champignons à la crème et au cerfeuil

champignons cerfeuil1My friend Nicole lives in the shadow of the Pompidou Art Center, right around the corner from a Paris bistro called Le Hangar. This trendy restaurant is sufficiently hidden away to retain a private feeling, even in the crowded Beaubourg neighborhood. We have been going there for years — no, decades. Of their classic French dishes with a modern spin, my favorite has always been a salad of raw mushrooms with cream and herbs, specifically chervil — the herb that looks like a feathery version of cilantro or parsley but is quite different.

Champignons à la crème et au cerfeuil / Mushroom salad with cream and herbs

Why did chervil never catch on in the States? I don’t remember seeing it there, although it may now be available in gourmet markets. It is ubiquitous in France, easy to grow and reputedly packed with vitamins and healthful properties. Chervil is all over the place in French cuisine — in soups, omelets, with fish, with vegetables and, as above, with certain salads. Its flavor is delicate, with hints of anise and tarragon. Apparently it came south from Russia, which is maybe why it is such a perfect partner for mushrooms and cream. If you cannot find chervil, dill is perhaps the best substitute. Happy cooking!

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Soupe de moules au safran

soupe moules safran1I never tasted mussels before arriving in Paris as a young woman. They just weren’t available far from the sea in the American Midwest, where I grew up. But even though Paris is about two hours by road from the nearest coastline (the Channel), all kinds of ultrafresh seafood can be found in abundance here. Mussels are cheap, easy to prepare and they delight the palate with their slightly sweet and nutty flavor. They marry well with other tastes, including spices like curry or, as in this soup, saffron.

Soupe de moules au safran / Mussel soup with saffron

Saffron is, of course, expensive, but the amount needed for this recipe won’t break the bank. Counter to standard wisdom, I prefer powdered saffron to the stringy kind — it’s easier to use and, in my view, just as flavorful. Saffron is pricey because it comes from a type of crocus that lives for a single day — the threads must be harvested on that day, and within a window of a couple of hours! It is one of my favorite spices, redolent of the luxury of Arabian nights. The way it enhances mussels is magical. Try it and see.

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Tarte aux poires à la crème d’amandes

tarte poire amandes2Pear tart with almond cream is also known in France as tarte aux poires Bourdaloue. It takes its name from a former Paris pastry shop called Bourdaloue, named for the street on which it stood, the Rue Boudaloue in the 9th arrondissement, which is named in turn for Louis Bourdaloue, a 17th century Jesuit priest renowned as a brilliant preacher. Marcel Proust was reputedly fond of Bourdaloue’s tart and wrote about it in one of his books (the name of which I have long since forgotten — if anyone out there has the reference, please let me know). Many years ago a Frenchman who was to become important to me brought me a tarte aux poires Bourdaloue as a first step toward seduction. I have been in love with this tart ever since.

Tarte aux poires à la crème d’amandes / Pear tart with almond cream

The pastry shop no longer exists, alas. It has morphed into a bakery of another name, and while the shop still retains the Bourdaloue awning, do not be deceived — its pastry bears no resemblance whatsoever. I recall my first Bourdaloue pear tart as meltingly sweet and creamy, with the silky smoothness of the almonds contrasting enchantingly with the slightly tangy resistence of the fruit. Okay, fair enough. I was high when I tasted it — high on wine, high on anticipation, high on the almost certain knowledge that I was falling in love. It’s enough to make anyone go crazy for a tart. Happy cooking!

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Julienne de champignons

julienne2This dish of sliced mushrooms in a creamy, cheesy sauce is something I discovered while living in Moscow in the 1980s. In Russia, where it is known as zhulien, it is often served during intermission at theaters in little individual long-handled pots with a tiny spoon. Sometimes chicken is added to the mixture. I have not yet managed to track down the Russian history of this recipe, but it is clearly French in origin, as its name derives from the fact that the mushrooms are sliced julienne-style. Most likely it was introduced in the 1800s, when French chefs were brought north to cook for the tsars. So from Paris to Petersburg and back to Paris, where I occasionally make it, much to the delight of my guests.

Julienne de champignons / Mushrooms julienne

Russians, perhaps the world’s greatest mushroom hunters, especially love wild mushrooms, like chanterelles, which enhance this dish with an earthier taste than the cultivated variety. But as the chanterelle season is relatively short, the dish is most commonly prepared with cultivated white mushrooms, and flavored with dill or cilantro, two of the most popular herbs among Russians. In the photo above, the julienne was made with a mixture of shiitake and white mushrooms. The shiitake, readily available in French markets at this time of year, add additional flavor and texture to the dish. I used a medium-sized gratin dish, good for family suppers, but individual ramekins make a fine impression if you have guests gathering around your table. When serving a Russian-style feast, I would most probably present the julienne — in very small individual quantities, as it is quite rich — after a starter and before the main course.

 

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Entrecôte béarnaise

entrecote bearnaise3This is not an everyday dish because it involves a sauce, béarnaise, that requires a little time and a bit of technique. The results, however, are spectacular. Choose a tender, flavorful cut of steak. Sirloin, rib-eye, Porterhouse, club and New York strip make good substitutes for the French entrecôte, which is cut from the rib area. French restaurants often serve the steak grilled, which is unfortunate because the meat acquires a charred flavor. It should be pan-seared or broiled, with the sauce served alongside. Ah, the sauce!

Entrecôte béarnaise / Steak with béarnaise sauce

Béarnaise is creamy perfection. An emulsion of egg yolks and butter flavored with vinegar, shallots and tarragon, it is classified as a derivative of hollandaise on the French list of master sauces, and is equally rich. In fact, between the steak and the sauce, this dish is packed with cholesterol. But not to worry, as entrecôte béarnaise is one of those French paradox dishes. Match it with a sufficiently tannic red wine, preferably a great Bordeaux, and any negative health consequences simply melt away (or so they say).

It would be justifiable to think that béarnaise sauce comes from the Béarn region in the Pyrénées of southwest France, but that turns out to be wrong. The sauce was invented in 1837 by Jean-Louis-François Collinet, the chef at a restaurant outside Paris that was a former royal residence of the 16th century French king Henri IV. Collinet whipped up the sauce on the spur of the moment. Asked for its name, he saw a bust of Henri IV in the dining room and dubbed the sauce béarnaise — because the king had been born in the Béarn region! There are various derivatives of béarnaise, among them sauce choron (flavored with tomato) and sauce Colbert (flavored with meat glaze and white wine). Once you get the hang of it, a fine béarnaise can be produced in less than 10 minutes. It’s fun, and so rewarding to see the ingredients transmogrify into a perfect sauce.

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Poireaux sauce verte

poireaux2The leek is a handsome vegetable. The ancient Egyptians grew and enjoyed it, and so did the Romans — in fact, it was reputedly Nero’s favorite vegetable. The Welsh enjoy it so much that they made it their national emblem. Milder than the onion, the leek makes frequent appearances in European cuisine, notably in France and Belgium. So why are leeks so rarely seen in American cooking? One person here in Paris who’s not afraid of leeks is Shaun Kelly — but he’s Australian, not American. At his restaurant, Au Passage, he made a leek starter the other day that was so delightful I had to try to replicate it.

Poireaux sauce verte / Warm young leeks with a green herbal sauce

Leeks are also delicious served as a starter with mustard vinaigrette and many other sauces — or just with sea salt and a fine extra-virgin, cold-pressed olive oil. But this herbal sauce adds a little je-ne-sais-quoi that lifts the leeks out of the ordinary. As the leek is a winter vegetable — and spring finally seems to be around the corner — the time to try this dish is now. Leeks won’t be on the menu for long. Happy cooking!

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Pots de crème au chocolat

creme choco1Can you imagine that most of the world never heard of chocolate until the Renaissance in Europe? That’s when the conquistadors brought it back to Spain, having acquired it from the Aztecs. Cortés was among the first Westerners to observe its properties. His official biographer wrote that Montezuma drank a cup of it after every meal, followed by a smoke of tobacco flavored with ‘liquid amber.’ Others reported that Montezuma drank up to 50 cups of it a day. Did the Aztecs know what science has now confirmed — that dark chocolate is good for both heart and mind? If it makes you feel good, that may be because it contains the same chemical that is produced by the brain when you fall in love…

Pots de crème au chocolat / French chocolate cream

This recipe produces a satiny smooth dark chocolate dessert flavored with hints of cognac and coffee. It can be made in about 10 minutes, and served a couple hours later once it has had time to chill. Devilishly rich, it can be elegantly served in dessert wine glasses to make what the French call a péché mignon — a darling little sin that is excusable because one can’t help oneself from indulging in it. At this time of year, when the sun has been inexcusably absent for months, one would be sinful not to indulge in it. Happy cooking!

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Purée de potiron au parmesan

This is the longest and dreariest winter I can remember in my more than 30 years in Paris. Gray, gray, gray every day, and it keeps snowing at a time of year when the café tables have usually started to come out, giving Parisians a chance to sip an apéritif in the sun and enjoy the lift that comes with the feeling that spring is just around the corner. By late February I normally get an itchy feeling in my fingers telling me it’s time to go down to Burgundy and trim the raspberry bushes. None such this year. Instead, I’m working on creating cheery winter dishes that can warm the soul on a cold and blowy night.

Purée de potiron au parmesan / Pumpkin purée with parmesan

Meantime, I’ve added a new category to this site: Classes. If you’d like to participate in cooking classes in my Paris kitchen, now or by arrangement in the future, please get in touch via the Contact form. The new series of classes kicked off last week with a delightful American couple just in from Minneapolis and a Parisian friend of theirs. We made pan-seared sea scallops on a bed of baby greens, veal chops with shiitake mushrooms, French apple tart and — you guessed it — pumpkin purée with parmesan. It took less than two hours, and we really had fun! I hope some of you will be able join in.

 

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