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Entrecôte béarnaise
This is not an everyday dish because it involves a sauce, béarnaise, that requires a little time and a bit of technique. The results, however, are spectacular. Choose a tender, flavorful cut of steak. Sirloin, rib-eye, Porterhouse, club and New … Continue reading
Poireaux sauce verte
The leek is a handsome vegetable. The ancient Egyptians grew and enjoyed it, and so did the Romans — in fact, it was reputedly Nero’s favorite vegetable. The Welsh enjoy it so much that they made it their national emblem. … Continue reading
Posted in 1. Starters
Tagged green sauce, herbal sauce, leeks, poireaux sauce verte, recipe
4 Comments
Pots de crème au chocolat
Can you imagine that most of the world never heard of chocolate until the Renaissance in Europe? That’s when the conquistadors brought it back to Spain, having acquired it from the Aztecs. Cortés was among the first Westerners to observe … Continue reading
Posted in Desserts
Tagged chocolate cream, French, Pots de creme au chocolat, recipe
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Purée de potiron au parmesan
This is the longest and dreariest winter I can remember in my more than 30 years in Paris. Gray, gray, gray every day, and it keeps snowing at a time of year when the café tables have usually started to … Continue reading
Posted in 8. Vegetables
Tagged parmesan, pumpkin purée, purée de potiron au parmesan, recipe
1 Comment
Rodolphe Paquin
When Rodolphe Paquin took over 16 years ago as chef at the Paris restaurant Le Repaire de Cartouche, the place was in a shambles. Which is a shame, if only because of the restaurant’s unique frescos depicting the life of … Continue reading
Posted in Et cetera
Tagged chef, entretien, interview, le repaire de cartouche, rodolphe paquin
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Huîtres gratinées aux épinards
I’ll never forget my first taste of an oyster. My French boyfriend showed me how it was done. He took an open oyster on the halfshell, detached it with a sharp knife and, in one swift gesture, let the glistening … Continue reading
Velouté de cresson
Watercress was considered by the ancients to have medicinal and even magical properties. The Romans thought it could cure baldness, the Greeks that it could cure madness and moderate the effects of overindulgence in wine. Dioscorides, a Greek doctor who … Continue reading
Omelette bonne femme
I wanted to give you a great recipe for Valentine’s Day, and this is what I came up with. It’s a delightful brunch dish when preceded by a glass of champagne — and can also make a light supper with … Continue reading
Posted in 4. Omelets, Soufflés, Quiche
Tagged arugula, bacon, omelet, omelet with bacon and potatoes, omelette bonne femme, potatoes, recipe, roquette
3 Comments
Are cookbooks finished?
This is the question nobody wanted to ask out loud at the Roger Smith Cookbook Conference, a gathering of cookbook writers, editors, publishers, agents, food bloggers and food historians that has just concluded in New York. But it was lurking … Continue reading
Posted in Et cetera
7 Comments
Suprêmes de poulet aux morilles
Tender chicken breasts poached in white wine with a little cream and the woodsy succulence of morel mushrooms – sounds great, right? Wish I could remember. I’m having a little trouble conjuring up this dish right now because I’m on … Continue reading
