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Soupe de moules au safran
I never tasted mussels before arriving in Paris as a young woman. They just weren’t available far from the sea in the American Midwest, where I grew up. But even though Paris is about two hours by road from the … Continue reading
Tarte aux poires à la crème d’amandes
Pear tart with almond cream is also known in France as tarte aux poires Bourdaloue. It takes its name from a former Paris pastry shop called Bourdaloue, named for the street on which it stood, the Rue Boudaloue in the … Continue reading
Posted in Desserts
Tagged almond cream, creme d'amandes, French pear tart, recipe, tarte aux poires, tarte bourdaloue
2 Comments
Julienne de champignons
This dish of sliced mushrooms in a creamy, cheesy sauce is something I discovered while living in Moscow in the 1980s. In Russia, where it is known as zhulien, it is often served during intermission at theaters in little individual … Continue reading
Posted in 8. Vegetables
1 Comment
Entrecôte béarnaise
This is not an everyday dish because it involves a sauce, béarnaise, that requires a little time and a bit of technique. The results, however, are spectacular. Choose a tender, flavorful cut of steak. Sirloin, rib-eye, Porterhouse, club and New … Continue reading
Poireaux sauce verte
The leek is a handsome vegetable. The ancient Egyptians grew and enjoyed it, and so did the Romans — in fact, it was reputedly Nero’s favorite vegetable. The Welsh enjoy it so much that they made it their national emblem. … Continue reading
Posted in 1. Starters
Tagged green sauce, herbal sauce, leeks, poireaux sauce verte, recipe
4 Comments
Pots de crème au chocolat
Can you imagine that most of the world never heard of chocolate until the Renaissance in Europe? That’s when the conquistadors brought it back to Spain, having acquired it from the Aztecs. Cortés was among the first Westerners to observe … Continue reading
Posted in Desserts
Tagged chocolate cream, French, Pots de creme au chocolat, recipe
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Purée de potiron au parmesan
This is the longest and dreariest winter I can remember in my more than 30 years in Paris. Gray, gray, gray every day, and it keeps snowing at a time of year when the café tables have usually started to … Continue reading
Posted in 8. Vegetables
Tagged parmesan, pumpkin purée, purée de potiron au parmesan, recipe
1 Comment
Rodolphe Paquin
When Rodolphe Paquin took over 16 years ago as chef at the Paris restaurant Le Repaire de Cartouche, the place was in a shambles. Which is a shame, if only because of the restaurant’s unique frescos depicting the life of … Continue reading
Posted in Et cetera
Tagged chef, entretien, interview, le repaire de cartouche, rodolphe paquin
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Huîtres gratinées aux épinards
I’ll never forget my first taste of an oyster. My French boyfriend showed me how it was done. He took an open oyster on the halfshell, detached it with a sharp knife and, in one swift gesture, let the glistening … Continue reading
Velouté de cresson
Watercress was considered by the ancients to have medicinal and even magical properties. The Romans thought it could cure baldness, the Greeks that it could cure madness and moderate the effects of overindulgence in wine. Dioscorides, a Greek doctor who … Continue reading
