Salade d’endives au roquefort

The endive is a humble vegetable here in France, where they most certainly do not call it Belgian. Grown undergrown, its white leaves crisp and slightly bitter, the endive comes into its own in the winter months. It may be braised, served au gratin with ham (a Burgundy specialty), or turned into a salad with a zingy sauce and a decidedly adult flavor. For example, this salad of endive with a roquefort dressing and walnuts crumbled on top.

Salade d’endives au roquefort / Salad of Belgian endive with roquefort

The endive is a versatile vegatalbe, and there are many variations on this salad. You can omit the cream and use olive oil instead. In which case you may choose to substitute balsamic vinegar for the lemon juice, and maybe even decide to add some julienne strips of cured country ham. Or substitute cubes of gruyère cheese for the roquefort. Use your imagination — that’s the fun of cooking — but please don’t omit the walnuts!


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Kir

Why should the word kir be associated in my mind with the word decadence? The cocktail originally known as a blanc-cassis has nothing particularly decadent about it. It’s the most natural of apéritifs, made of dry white wine — Burgundy is traditional — and crème de cassis, or black currant liqueur. Served throughout the Burgundy region long before it was named after the priest Félix Kir, a resistance hero and mayor of Dijon, this drink is heady enough to liven up any cocktail party, and even temporarily to keep one’s mind off an election taking place thousands of miles away. Oh, and by the way, I first tasted a kir back in the 1970s, with a Paris friend who was taking me to a party. On the way over, he taught me a new dance he said everyone would be dancing. It was called la décadanse.

Kir

When this friend, Victor, told me that the cocktail he ordered was called a kir, I refused to believe it — on grounds that the word did not look French. As it happens, Félix Kir’s family was from Alsace, hence the Germanic spelling. He was a colorful character, by all accounts, as well as a patriot who managed to arrange the escape of 5,000 French prisoners from a camp in Longvic, south of Dijon, in 1940, during the early days of the Nazi occupation. Decorated for bravery, he was elected mayor of Dijon after the war and held the post until he died in 1968.

The cocktail previously known simply as blanc-cassis, or white with cassis, was served so frequently by Mayor Kir to visiting dignitaries that his name became associated with the drink — and its many variations. These include not just the kir royal, made with Champagne or another sparkling wine as a base, but also ‘kirs’ made with white wine and other liqueurs — blackberry, peach or raspberry, for example. And then there are ‘kirs’ made with cassis and red wine. If made with red Burgundy, the drink is known as a communard, while cassis with red Bordeaux is called a cardinal.

In 1960, when Mayor Kir was due to meet Nikita Khrushchev in Dijon, the local bars invented a drink they called the Double K: 1 part crème de cassis, 2 parts white wine and 2 parts vodka. In nearly 40 years in France, I have never encountered a Double K, but — given my anxiety about the American election — I might try one tonight. And if things turn out the way I hope, well, I just might dance the décadanse.

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Gougères

Gougères are cheese-flavored cream puffs from the Burgundy region and are usually served on special occasions, often with an apéritif, for example a kir — dry white wine flavored with crème de cassis, black currant liqueur (coming tomorrow). When I first arrived in France in the 1970s, gougères were rarely to be seen in Paris. You had to get on a train and head toward Dijon to run into them. Now they are frequently served, most often as mini-puffs bought frozen and reheated in the oven. These frozen gougères are both handy and tasty, but what can I say? They ain’t nothin’ like the real thing.

Gougères / Apéritif cheese puffs, Burgundy style

The baker in the small Burgundy village of Villiers Saint-Benoît doesn’t mess around with mini-gougères. His are proud, firm, softball-size pastries, crisp on the outside, meltingly tender on the inside — consistently the best I’ve come across. His name is Franck Lasne, and he was kind enough to share his recipe with me. When preparing gougères at home, I usually make them smaller than Franck’s but larger than minis, about the size of a tangerine. They are more manageable this way — more than a mouthful, but no so large that one would need to refrain from asking for more.

Site news: Beginning next week, The Everyday French Chef will switch to a new schedule, with recipes coming 2-3 times a week, and not every day. This does not signal any change in the everyday spirit of the site. But now that we have been up and running for nearly two months, with dozens of recipes available and more than 5,000 visits, it’s time for me to work on developing other parts of the site, and to spend a bit more time getting to know my fellow food bloggers. If there are any recipes in particular you would like to see in the weeks ahead, please drop me a line. And, as ever, happy cooking! — Meg Bortin

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Coming next week

For anyone who happens to live in Paris, I will be hosting a soufflé demonstration in my kitchen this coming Tuesday, Nov. 6, from 2-4 p.m. A great way to get your mind off the suspenseful American elections! And it’s free: We will make a couple of soufflés and taste them together. To sign up, please message me via the Contact page on this site.

Also coming next week: Specialties from Burgundy, including my local baker’s recipe for absolutely incredible gougères (cocktail-hour cheese puffs). And some other surprises. In the meantime, happy cooking!

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Shaun Kelly

With Shaun Kelly, chef at the hot Paris bistro Au Passage, The Everyday French Chef inaugurates a new occasional feature: interviews with our favorite Parisian chefs. To kick off the series, I went to see Kelly on a recent afternoon. Young, edgy and ultracreative, he seems to be having a picnic in his first job fully in charge of the kitchen. Aged 28 and originally from Australia, he has lived in Paris only since March. And despite his growing star power, this, he confided, is his first interview.

Shaun Kelly / A chef in Paris

Before moving to Paris, Kelly worked in London with the English chef Fergus Henderson, and is a firm believer in Ferguson’s ‘nose-to-tail’ approach to cooking – the idea that chefs should use every part of the beast, including the offal, and also every part of the plant, for example using the stems of dill in broths and the fronds as a garnish. The result is dishes that are not just delicious and beautiful, but ecological as well. In the interview, Kelly talks about his approach to food, where he finds his inspiration, and how he made his way from a tiny town in Australia to the capital of French cuisine.

Site news: It is the French school holidays now and The Everyday French Chef is taking a break. We will be back on Monday with recipes with a Burgundy accent. In the meantime, I hope you enjoy the interview with Shaun. And happy cooking!

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Salade d’épinards avec pancetta

I often find myself craving this salad as winter sets in. The deep green leaves of the spinach topped by crispy brown pancetta look so appealing on the plate. The sauce of lemon, olive oil and garlic is so tangy it knocks your socks off. But it isn’t just esthetics and flavor that make us desire this sort of salad when the weather turns cold. Spinach is packed with vitamins and iron, lemon has Vitamin C, olive oil is said to lower the risk of heart disease, and garlic — used by humans in cuisine for at least the last 7,000 years — has been variously credited with warding off the common cold, lowering cholesterol and preventing certain kinds of cancer. Et voilà — a delicious winter salad that is also good for you!

Salade d’épinards avec pancetta / Spinach salad with pancetta

For any readers who may be interested in food history, I’d like to invite you to take a look at the recent contributions of Professor Luciano Granozzi on the origins of a recipe I posted on this site in September, proscuitto with figs. You can find this under Starters on the recipe page for Jambon de pays aux figues. Il dottore Granozzi, who teaches history at the University of Catania, questioned the national origins of the dish — Italian or French — and when I challenged him to tell us more, he found a hilarious text about the possible inventor of the fig-and-ham combination. I have done my best to translate the gist of it.

Coming tomorrow: The Everyday French Chef will launch the first in a series of interviews with chefs at some of my favorite Paris restaurants. The series begins with Shaun Kelly, the 28-year-old chef at Au Passage in the 11th arrondissement. A self-described former punk rocker, he has transmuted his musical energy into a modern, exciting culinary style. Not to be missed.

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Profiteroles

Cream puffs filled with vanilla ice cream and topped with hot chocolate sauce — who first came up with this wonderful idea? It turns out that profiteroles have a long and complex history. Apparently a 16th-century Italian chef named Popelini, who worked for Catherine de Medici, wife of the French king Henri II, was the first to think of putting a filling inside cream puffs. (Whether or not he actually invented the puffs is not clear). Various brilliant French chefs later added savory fillings, whipped cream and, eventually, ice cream. And then an unsung genius added the hot chocolate topping.

Profiteroles / Profiteroles

I first tasted profiteroles at a Paris restaurant called Le Procope, which funnily enough was founded by another Italian chef, Procopio of Sicily, who is credited with introducing ice cream to France. This was about a century after Popelini moved to France. Having tasted profiteroles, of course I had to try to make them. They are prepared with a dough that is cooked on the stove top, hence the original French name of this pastry: pâte à chaud (heated dough), which later segued into pâte à choux (dough for cabbages, because to the French cream puffs look like mini-cabbages). This in turn has segued into a French endearment, ‘Mon petit chou,’ which does not mean ‘My little cabbage,’ but rather, ‘My little cream puff.’ And indeed, when you open your oven door to find your mounds of dough puffed up and golden and round as cabbages, you may find yourself crying out, with warm feelings of endearment, ‘Ah, mes petits choux!’

The Everyday French Chef will be back on Monday. Happy cooking!

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Salade de cresson

watercress salad2Crisp, peppery, dark green and packed with vitamins, watercress can be grown all year round and makes a wonderful winter salad. It is most often seen in Paris as a garnish to meat dishes, with no dressing. But it takes on star quality if dressed with a sauce of oil, lemon and just a little salt. I can still remember how surprised I was by its sharpness when I first tasted it, just after moving to France. It made me wake up and say, ‘More, please!’

Salade de cresson / Watercress salad

Watercress may be cultivated today, but it also grows wild along riverbanks — and people have been eating it pretty much since the dawn of humanity. It is well loved in cuisine: the watercress sandwiches of England are delicious, and the plant’s pretty green leaves make a fabulous soup (coming soon). But watercress just on its own has been credited with almost magical powers over the years. The Romans thought it could cure baldness, the Greeks believed it could cure madness, and Dioscorides, a first century pharmacologist, prescribed it as an aphrodisiac. Who knows? He may have been right. Try it and see.

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Pommes de terre au romarin

rosemary potatoes2Potatoes roasted with rosemary and olive oil — nothing so melt-in-the-mouth delicious could be as simple to make. Preparation time is five minutes or less, although you do need to be around for the next hour or so while your potatoes turn a golden brown, their aroma drawing everyone in the house into your kitchen. Fend them off with promises of things to come, for these potatoes marry well with so many other dishes — roast chicken, pan-seared fish, an omelet or simply a green salad.

Pommes de terre au romarin / Roasted rosemary potatoes

Site news: Today I launch The Everyday French Chef on Facebook. Simply click on the Facebook button above to go to the page. Here you will find new features including an Events section, the first event being a soufflé demonstration in my Paris kitchen on Nov. 6. If you happen to be in Paris, please sign up — space is limited, but the demonstration is free. The Facebook page is a place for readers to interact with me and each other, for example by suggesting recipes to include on this site, or by sharing your own culinary tips. If you are enjoying The Everyday French Chef, please share the new page with your Facebook friends. Your support means a lot to me! — Meg Bortin

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Steak maître d’hôtel

Who was the genius who first conjured up this simple but delicious way of serving steak? My guess is that it was a head waiter with a big crowd coming in and a dearth of ingredients for sauces. But every restaurant kitchen in France has butter and parsley on hand — and so, voilà, a new dish was born. But this is just my imagination speaking. I plan to track down the culinary origins of beurre maître d’hôtel — or ‘head waiter’s butter’ — and will get back to you on that. In the meantime, why not just enjoy the steak?

Steak au beurre maître d’hôtel / Pan-seared steak with parsley butter

This is a great recipe for any everyday chef, for it takes a total of 10 minutes to prepare, from fridge to table. With a very high quality steak, it may be served on its own, garnished with a little bunch of watercress, for example. Or accompanied by the great French classic, pommes frites (French fries). Or by any number of vegetable dishes, from rosemary potatoes (coming tomorrow) to green beans to purées and beyond. Happy cooking!

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