Bar rôti, tian pommes de terre-fenouil

Sea bass and finocchio marry well. In this combo from Provence, fillets of roasted sea bass are served with a tian of potatoes, finocchio, garlic and fresh thyme. But what, you may ask, is a tian? Well, it’s two things. First, it’s the name of an earthenware cooking dish typical of Provence. Second, it’s the food cooked in the dish, generally sliced veggies drizzled with olive oil. Happily you do not need a tian (dish) to make a tian (baked veggies).

Bar rôti / Roasted sea bass
Tian pommes de terre-fenouil / Potato-finocchio tian from Provence

I was inspired to make this dish on a recent sunny Sunday while walking to my neighborhood farmers market. I had originally planned on posting a recipe for gefilte fish (carpe farcie in French) ahead of the Passover holiday, which begins on the evening of April 12, with a recipe for eggs to follow before Easter (you’ll soon see). But the sunshine evoked summer days to come, and summer in France often evokes Provence. Exit gefilte fish (maybe next year). Hello, fennel and sea bass.

As always with fish, you’ll want to begin with the freshest sea bass available (or, if sea bass is not on offer, you can substitute another white-fleshed fish). I opted for wild sea bass — which, at nearly 25 euros a kilo ($12 a pound), isn’t cheap — instead of the less expensive farmed variety. Ask your fishmonger to fillet the fish, keeping the skin on. To roast it, simply coat with olive oil and bake for about 20 minutes, until the skin begins to brown.

If serving the sea bass with the tian, you’ll want to get that going first. The potatoes and finocchio are finely sliced and layered into a baking dish with minced garlic, salt, freshly ground black pepper and thyme. I highly recommend using fresh thyme if at all possible (I grow some on my balcony for use in all seasons). If you don’t have fresh thyme, use a tiny pinch of dried thyme or a scattering of herbes de Provence.

The tian may of course be served alongside other fish or meat, or as part of a vegetarian/vegan meal, perhaps with Provence-style roasted tomatoes, ratatouille or roasted eggplant, Mediterranean style. For a full-fledged Provence experience, break open a bottle of chilled rosé to serve with the fish and/or veggies. You’ll feel the sun shine through.

Happy cooking.