Monthly Archives: September 2012

Crumble aux myrtilles

The crumble may have originated in Britain or Ireland or even America — nobody seems to know for sure — but the French have embraced it so wholeheartedly that it now pops up on menus of Parisian restaurants both humble … Continue reading

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Poêlée de champignons des bois

I learned this dish many years ago from a French friend who happened to be living in the Périgord region south of Limoges, an area that falls within the northern reaches of Dordogne. First we went out gathering mushrooms in … Continue reading

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Spaghettis aux coques

This is the French version of pasta alle vongole, the Italian dish that tastes so seductively of the sea. It is made with cockles, which are abundant along the shores of northern France and England, among other places. If they … Continue reading

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Poulet rôti épicé

The evening before I was to teach my first cooking class, I met two French friends for dinner at a Paris bistro. ‘What’s on your teaching menu for tomorrow?’ they asked, and when I replied, ‘Roast chicken,’ they burst out … Continue reading

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Tarte aux quetsches

Heralding autumn, the blue plums known as quetsches appear in French markets at this time of year. They are grown mainly in the eastern regions of Alsace and Lorraine, and appear to be related to what the British call damsons. … Continue reading

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There must be as many ways of making ratatouille as there are chefs in France, for appreciation of this ultraflavorful vegetable stew spread north from Provence long ago. The best I ever had was at lunch at a two-star Michelin … Continue reading

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Omelette à la sauge

There is an art to omelet making. I learned it long ago at the Café Dewitt in Ithaca, New York, where I had a part-time job as a chef while working on my Masters thesis. The trick is to make … Continue reading

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Magret de canard au cassis

This recipe marries two of my favorite flavors — the wild, woodsy taste of black currants and the rich, warm taste of duck. Throw in a little garlic and thyme and you have an intensely satisfying dish for autumn, winter, … Continue reading

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Soupe au fenouil braisé

When summer fades toward autumn, the days grow shorter and the nights begin to nip, I often get a hankering for soup. And not just any soup — the warm, comforting kind, the kind with which to start an evening … Continue reading

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Ricotta à la lavande et aux mirabelles

Guess what? Even everyday French chefs go out from time to time. Luckily for me there is a cluster of great little bistros in my neighborhood, and none I like better than Au Passage. The other night I had a … Continue reading

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