Category Archives: 8. Vegetables

Céleri-rave aux noix sur lit de feuilles

Celeriac, although seen infrequently elsewhere, has long been a staple of French cuisine. When I first arrived in Paris, it appeared most regularly on the mixed veggie plate called assiette de crudités, grated and bathed in a mustardy remoulade sauce. … Continue reading

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Aubergines au four

Planning a dinner party takes a certain amount of organization. You need to think about the menu, do the shopping, buy the wine, set the table and, of course, do the cooking. This all takes time — and when I … Continue reading

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Jardinière de légumes printaniers

If I were a vegetable, I’d like to start my life in spring. The tenderest peas, the sweetest onions, the most darling little carrots and turnips emerge at this time of year. The markets in France are overflowing with beautiful … Continue reading

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Artichauts à la barigoule

Artichokes simmered lovingly with garlic and parsley — this dish is served throughout southeast France and Italy, and probably has been since Roman times. There are many variations, often with pancetta, breadcrumbs, tomatoes, onions, carrots or white wine. I prefer … Continue reading

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Gratin savoyard

I had a surprise this morning when I sat down to write this post. I thought today’s recipe for a festive potato dish was gratin dauphinois, but discovered that what I’ve been calling dauphinois all these years is actually gratin … Continue reading

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Fenouil et endives braisés

My friend Vera, a superlative cook, has lived all over the world. Bohemian by birth (Czech) and by nature (an adventurer’s soul), she moved from Prague to Paris to Montréal to Beijing to Jerusalem to Moscow to Berlin to London … Continue reading

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Gratin de potiron Georges Blanc

I wish I could claim credit for this fabulous pumpkin gratin, but in fact Georges Blanc gave me the recipe after I visited his three-star kitchens near Macon last month. Blanc, the current scion of a culinary dynasty stretching back … Continue reading

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Courgettes sautées à l’ail

If you have a garden, raising zucchini is a challenge. Not in the sense that it’s hard to grow — no. Rather, how to use its abundance. The courgette season has not yet begun in northern France due to our … Continue reading

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Petits pois à la française

Went down to the country this weekend and planted some peas. It’s finally warm enough. If I’m lucky they’ll be ready by July. Thankfully the Paris markets are already bursting with fresh peas — flown up from Morocco or Spain. … Continue reading

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Asperges braisées

I think there’s something we can all agree on — the first taste of asparagus each year is one of the rites of spring. Not that spring has sprung in Paris quite yet, but the first green spears have just … Continue reading

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