This sophisticated French take on the burger is made of ground veal flavored with grated Comté cheese, garlic and herbs, then lightly breaded and fried. Serve it on a bun, and it becomes child friendly. But it also makes a surprisingly elegant main dish that marries well with anything from pasta to veggies to salad. And despite its name, which makes it sound like an Italian dish from Milan, this dish is totally French — and rather unusual.
Milanaise de veau haché / Veal burgers, French style
You will not find many recipes for milanaise de veau haché on the web (I looked). Nor will you find these burgers served in many Parisian bistros. I’ve been making them since discovering them quite a while ago at my butcher’s counter, already breaded and ready for the skillet. But I never thought about making them from scratch until recently, when my daughter, who loves them, asked me to try. Her verdict? ‘Incredible!’
This dish is not to be confused with escalopes à la milanaise (breaded veal scallops fried in oil), which are ubiquitous in France and do indeed hail from Italy — although the Italian version generally incorporates grated Parmesan into the breading, while the French version does not. And while I did find Italian veal burger recipes online, they, too, use Parmesan, are topped with tomato sauce and are very different from the French kind.
So where does this recipe come from? I asked around but didn’t get any clear answers. Not every French butcher carries the patties, and those who do are loath to part with their secrets. But as milanise de veau haché always contains Comté or a similar French cheese, e.g. Gruyère or Emmental, which are produced in the Franche-Comté and Savoie regions bordering Switzerland and Italy, my best guess is that the dish evolved over time as it made its way northwards. If anyone has a better explanation, please write in…
And so, to the kitchen. I would suggest serving the veal with pasta, such as fusilli with zucchini or ravioli with butter and sage; with risotto, for example with wild mushrooms or with saffron; with veggies, such as ratatouille or homemade French fries; and/or with a mesclun salad of mixed greens. You could start off with green tapenade or cured country ham with fresh figs, and end with a walnut tart or ricotta with lavender and plums.
Happy cooking!
