Nouilles sésame à la sichuanaise

Sesame noodles, Sichuan style

This flavor-packed dish takes just 20 minutes to prepare, the key being to have the correct ingredients. Unless you do a lot of Chinese cooking, this will most likely require a trip to your local Asian grocery store, or a visit to an online supplier. So what’s on the list?

First, a good Asian sesame oil. Do not be tempted to buy domestic sesame oil, such as the type found in organic grocery shops. This is a pale imitation of the Asian variety, which is darker in color and far richer in flavor because it’s made from roasted sesame seeds.

Next, Chinese black vinegar. White rice vinegar may be substituted, but the dark variety is more intense. Third, Chinese chili oil, also known in the States as chili crisp. This is a spicy mix of oil, red pepper and other ingredients that delivers both flavor and texture. Fourth, Sichuan peppercorn. This is not actually pepper, but rather the dried berries of the prickly ash bush. It’s an optional ingredient but I tend to use it because I love the numbing flavor.

And finally, the noodles. I prefer fresh Chinese egg noodles, but any Asian noodles may be used — rice, wheat or egg, fresh or dried — and, in a pinch, you can use spaghetti.

The rest of the ingredients — soy sauce, sugar, garlic, peanuts and scallions — will either be in your cupboard or are easy to obtain. These sesame noodles are typically served at room temperature, on their own or as a side for other Asian dishes. If you like, you can serve the noodles on a bed of cucumber, either shredded or in julienne strips.

The quantities below will serve 3-4 people.

1 tbsp. sesame oil
2 tsp. sugar
2 tsp. black vinegar
1 tbsp. soy sauce
1 tbsp. Chinese chili oil (chili crisp)
1 clove garlic
1/2 tsp. Sichuan peppercorn (optional)
3 tbsp. skinless cocktail peanuts
1/2 pound (250 g) Asian noodles
1/2 tsp. sea salt or table salt
1 tsp. cooking oil
1-2 scallions
cucumber for serving (optional)

Start by making the sauce. In a large bowl, combine the sesame oil, sugar, black vinegar, soy sauce and chili oil. Stir well to blend.

Peel the garlic and push through a press over the sauce. Stir in.

If using Sichuan peppercorn, crush it and add. You can crush it with a mortar and pestle, in a coffee grinder or, as I do, by wrapping it in a bit of paper towel and crushing it with the blunt end of a wooden knife handle.

You can pause the recipe here if you like. The dish will be best if you combine the noodles with the sauce and remaining ingredients at the last minute.

Preheat the oven to 350 F (180 C, gas mark 6). Place the peanuts in a pie tin. When the oven is hot, roast them for about 5 minutes. (Be careful, because they roast very quickly and can burn if you get distracted.) Allow to cool.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the noodles and the salt. Cook for the time indicated on the packet. About a minute before the noodles are done, add the cooking oil — this will keep them from sticking together.

When the noodles are done, drain through a colander under cold running water. Lift the noodles a few times with a fork to ensure they’re not sticking together.

The peanuts should be cool by now. Place them on a flat board and crush with a rollling pin. Chop the scallion (green part only).

Add the noodles to the sauce. Lift up with a fork and toss, mixing well so the noodles are uniformly covered in the sauce. Add the crushed peanuts and scallions and toss again. Taste, and adjust the seasonings as necessary.

Serve the noodles at room temperature, on their own or on a nest of shredded cucumber. Serves 3-4.

Variation: For a sesame-peanut flavor, add 1 tbsp. of softened peanut butter before adding the garlic. To soften, place the peanut butter in a small dish and stir in 1 tsp. very hot water. Best to use natural (unprocessed) peanut butter.