Monthly Archives: December 2014


When I first moved to Russia in June 1986, black caviar was not only plentiful and cheap, but also — less than two months after the Chernobyl nuclear disaster — seemed (to me) to be one of the safest foods … Continue reading

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Confit de canard

Confit de canard — preserved duck — hails from southwest France and is widely served throughout the country, although it is rarely seen elsewhere. The duck is preserved first in salt and then in fat, usually on the farm where … Continue reading

Posted in 6. Poultry | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

Céleri-rave aux noix sur lit de feuilles

Celeriac, although seen infrequently elsewhere, has long been a staple of French cuisine. When I first arrived in Paris, it appeared most regularly on the mixed veggie plate called assiette de crudités, grated and bathed in a mustardy remoulade sauce. … Continue reading

Posted in 8. Vegetables | Tagged , , , , , , , | 1 Comment