Monthly Archives: December 2012

Truffes au chocolat

Why are these sinfully elegant and delightful chocolates called truffles? They take their name from the just as sinfully elegant black truffle, which grows under oak trees, must be uncovered by pigs or dogs and has at various moments cost … Continue reading

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Saumon mariné à la russe

With the end-of-year holidays approaching, this Russian-French version of gravalax makes a fine festive dish. The salmon is marinated overnight in salt and sugar — et voilà, it’s ready. Although I enjoyed this dish many times while working in Russia, … Continue reading

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Coq au vin

The rooster is the French national bird, an unofficial symbol of Gallic pride, virility and, well, cockiness. Does this make coq au vin the French national dish? Not necessarily, although it’s certainly a contender. Coq au vin is most often … Continue reading

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Tarte à l’oignon rouge

One of the things I find most amazing about cooking is the way the simplest of ingredients can be turned into a dish that is, frankly, sublime. Red onion tart is such a dish. The onions are gently sautéed with … Continue reading

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Saumon vapeur au chou

Today begins my ode to the steamer, the most useful article in my kitchen. I use it constantly for fish and vegetables of all kinds. The steamer cooks quickly and cleanly. Flavors remain intense, and none of the vitamins are … Continue reading

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We’re nearly into the holiday season and to mark the occasion here is a cake from Alsace, kouglof, which according to one legend is shaped like a turban of the Magi. Not to imply, however, that this is a Christmas … Continue reading

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